Author Topic: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML  (Read 19555 times)

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Offline mungeclimber

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let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« on: September 22, 2009, 07:24:07 pm »
not for any particular reason...

here's a shot of Zak T doing his thang solo on Mescalito...  great shot really...



Offline Mike.

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2009, 10:18:21 pm »
Hell yea. Size matters. Go big or go home. Isn't that why we do it?

Thirty pitches to freedom.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2009, 12:28:57 am »
Mike you done both, right?  preference?


checking the topo, seems like an anchor should go in at the top of 26 to save the tree.



Offline lambone

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2009, 01:16:35 am »

Offline Mike.

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2009, 09:49:52 am »
Tough call, Rob.

Mesca is a little steeper overall, and probably a little more consistently difficult. WEML is way less travelled and, despite the bolt ladder, follows more distinct systems.

Both on the best part of the wall (IMO), full value EC lines that top out hundreds of feet above (and start hundreds of feet below) Zodiac. If I was gonna climb one now I'd probably do WEML to get away the trades. I'm thinking the route doesn't even get done once a year. Also, when routes get free climbing attempts it can impact the climbing. Not to complain--there are plenty of aid lines with nobody trying to free them--but it seems like I've been on a few lines right after free climbing efforts with mixed findings. Upgraded belays, great. Tick marks, added bolts, added belays, in situ heads and pins for pro...well. Not to say WEML is a better route. Maybe because it's not a better route there are fewer on it, and that's why I'd gravitate there. Maybe I'm full of shit and I did Mesca first and wanted another long easy-ish one...


Loose block near the end of P2 on WEML, which can be bypassed on the lower left by slinging a knob. You're in a shallow depression with cracks left and right, and above this a block forms a small roof, maybe a foot deep and 3-4 feet wide. This block moved about 3/8" when I began weighting a cam behind it. This thing would absolutely cream a leader, so take care. Sure got my attention...

Stay psyched on the huge lines! As ye sow...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Mike.

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2009, 09:50:47 am »
Great photo, BTW. Toenail polish and all. Right on, Zak = )


Looking relaxed there, Lambone. Another day in the office...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Caz

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2009, 11:41:49 am »
I've been eying WOEML for a long time. I still haven't heard if the bolts and rivets have been replaced. Anyone know?


Zac
I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2009, 11:53:10 am »
Everyone I've ever talked to said that the "Mother of ALL Rivet Ladders" is pretty sketch.
I'd pack a drill & a handful of machine heads, at least.
All the rivets & bolts on New Dawn were pretty good, of course it's been 12 years since I saw 'em.
So my word is outdated.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 12:14:53 pm by skully »

Offline Mike.

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2009, 12:24:11 pm »
Hey bros,

I don't think the ladder is a reason to avoid the route. The rivets are nearly as good as the day they went in, aluminum. The occasional bolt in the ladder looks questionable. It wouldn't be too hard to pack a tuning fork and small kit to upgrade those. (I wouldn't get on a rt like that without bolting gear.) in '99 there was a rusty quarter incher about every 7th hole, bet those will come out no problem and save a lot of drilling. If someone is serious about replacing those bolts I'll supply the HW.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2009, 12:41:30 pm »
Right on, Mike!
That's a Damn cool offer. Hope someone takes you up on it.
I agree that the "MOARL" is no reason to avoid the route.
 I've done New Dawn & mescalito, so I've gotten to gander at it quite a bit, & it's
fricken HUGE. Full Value, I'd say.  WOOT!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2009, 07:23:29 pm »
WEML seems like it gets less traffic because those bolts haven't gotten the upgrade yet.  Mos def need a full kit with tuners.


thx for the block beta, that's muy importante!


I'm gunna leave the mctopo in the shitter and spend some time with the topos. ruminate on it, ya know.








Offline lambone

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #11 on: September 24, 2009, 02:37:06 am »
Great photo, BTW. Toenail polish and all. Right on, Zak = )


Looking relaxed there, Lambone. Another day in the office...

Thats my Partner Grover!

Offline Mike.

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #12 on: September 24, 2009, 08:12:31 am »
Well, if he were fat and weird looking I guess I might not have made that error. Hehe...



We must repeat...the rivets are fine. The bolts in the rivet ladder don't look good, like the scores I've hung off before.
And there is a wide pitch you backclean the shit out of. Take a nut tool on lead for the low gardening. Have fun...


Just under Dawn Roof. Always nice to have a roof over yer head.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2009, 08:14:57 am by Mike. »
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Caz

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #13 on: September 24, 2009, 12:07:23 pm »
I am down to do WOEML and do some rebolting on it with anyone else interested. I'll even shell out the cash and but bolts and rivets needed to do the job (I've got a hook up at hilti).


I was thinking about asking Erik Sloan if he was interested in doing this...


Zac
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skully

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #14 on: September 24, 2009, 07:53:37 pm »
I fell out of the Dawn Roof.....Broke my foot. I thought I'd sprained it, anyway.
Fixed Mank......It will fail you.
Jugged the last 4 pitches. Worked it out, but I got No Leads From On High.
That's a very cool thing about that area, the fact that you're a lot higher than the SE Face routes.You watch them summit, when you've got 2 days to climb yet.  Except when you're hurt. Then it's just Pain.   Yarrrr.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2009, 08:04:52 pm by skully »

Offline Mike.

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #15 on: September 24, 2009, 08:28:34 pm »
That's what I want to hear. About self-rescue and sucking it up.

Skully my man, I'll wager you got as much character building out of those pitches and the descent as you've gotten on any big job. Good on ya.

Good word to the wise. All fixed is suspect.



Go for it, Zac. Erik is an old hand at restoration, and climbing like mad. Thanks for stepping up.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline jake

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #16 on: September 24, 2009, 08:37:32 pm »
Zak is super fun fellow to hang and climb with!  Do Mescalito if you want a rad C1 style route.  Bring aliens(offsets too) and HB nuts and you will cruise pin scars for long ways. Space looks more fun and is probably more entertaining as you would get to place pins, heads, and hook stuff. Probably like what Mescalito was like years ago???


Offline lambone

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #17 on: September 24, 2009, 08:52:14 pm »
Jake, i think it's interesting how you trivialize the ratings of routes. Mescalito is not C1 dude. Sure it's not "hard," nor ever really scary...but relative to other c1 routes in Yosemite it is at least 2 grades more difficult as far as tricky placements go.

Offline jake

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #18 on: September 24, 2009, 09:15:50 pm »
Mescalito was the hardest thing I've ever done due to not knowing how to do walls one bit.  I stuggle with ratings more than most... Aid is aid to me, it feels mostly all the same.  Lets just say I could never write a guide book that would make much sense. I suck at this game anyways so what I say shouldn't be taken seriously. Lambone is probably right and has better advice than I do! Personally I'd rather sit at the bear box and make a bunch of food.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2009, 09:21:24 pm by jake »

skully

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #19 on: September 24, 2009, 09:53:55 pm »

I have a pic taken near your spot, 'Bone. Coolness.
10th pitch....Mescalito.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2009, 09:57:10 pm by skully »

Offline lambone

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #20 on: September 24, 2009, 11:18:56 pm »
Mescalito was the hardest thing I've ever done due to not knowing how to do walls one bit.  I stuggle with ratings more than most... Aid is aid to me, it feels mostly all the same.  Lets just say I could never write a guide book that would make much sense. I suck at this game anyways so what I say shouldn't be taken seriously. Lambone is probably right and has better advice than I do! Personally I'd rather sit at the bear box and make a bunch of food.

Jake, i know what you've done...you dont suck. Hope your ankle is better.

All I am sayin is if I had a friend who'd only done C1 like the Nose, and nothing harder...i prolly wouldn't recomend Mesc to them because they'd liklely have to nail in a few spots is all.

Ratings dont allways make a whole lot of sense to me either.

Offline Mike.

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #21 on: September 25, 2009, 08:13:51 am »
Hey, jake, where ya been, brother, hiding out in LA? Good of you to swing by and sandbag us, hehe... Doing any climbing? Or just making food near the road???

Ask Kia about how C1 Mesca is. He took a couple long rides when Aliens blew out of scars. He revised his M.O. and stuck it after that.




That hooking traverse is such a great place to shoot. Anti-buttshot. I've got a few of my partner there, too.
« Last Edit: September 25, 2009, 08:16:25 am by Mike. »
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline lambone

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #22 on: September 25, 2009, 02:20:19 pm »

That hooking traverse is such a great place to shoot. Anti-buttshot. I've got a few of my partner there, too.

Totally Mike.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #23 on: September 25, 2009, 03:12:17 pm »
we need to get Kia to post up about that psychological transition.  that's the meat and bones of our experience. the depuzzling.

Offline Mike.

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #24 on: September 25, 2009, 04:37:06 pm »
We're getting drunk tonight. I'll prod.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline lambone

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #25 on: September 25, 2009, 11:08:17 pm »
lambone drinks a beer with Mike. and poop_tube @ computer desk

I have allways wanted to climb that Dawn Roof. That thing is incredible, it sticks out so far when you are looking at it from Mescalito.

I dont really understand the story on the bolts on the lower woeml....? Did they all get chopped or some? All i remember is Ammons post saying they (him and Ivo)  did it in a push and had to tie accesory chord through the smashed bolt hangers for their anchors!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Talk about contrived difficulty. Do smashed bolts count as A6 anchors?

I dont think I am the right guy to replace the bolts on lead (lambone is a bolt nOOb), especially the traversing ones, but I will happily volounteer my haulbitch/camp organizer skills. Draw straws for who gets the roof pitch.... :)


« Last Edit: September 25, 2009, 11:15:00 pm by lambone »

skully

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #26 on: September 25, 2009, 11:22:16 pm »
No, Man, You want the Roof Pitch. It's cool, I cleaned the mank......
I was kinda let down, though......It seemed bigger from below......
It's a good lead, mostly fun.
I'm stll bummed about Royal's chopping efforts. Ugly.
Ah, well, El Cap don't care. Too mighty. That, too, will pass.
Cheers.

Offline poop_tube

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #27 on: September 26, 2009, 12:04:23 am »
http://vimeo.com/6029502

i give it c1+

how about another beer Mike? Looks like we are out of the Oktoberfests. Let's dig into the orangebooms

*burrrrpp*

Offline lambone

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #28 on: September 26, 2009, 01:05:02 am »
No, Man, You want the Roof Pitch.

I know, I meant flip for who gets it....

skully

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Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« Reply #29 on: September 26, 2009, 07:16:26 am »
I knew that.....D'oh.