Author Topic: Crazy Yates sizes...  (Read 5409 times)

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Offline hoipolloi

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Crazy Yates sizes...
« on: September 30, 2009, 10:54:33 am »
So I had a Yates Shield.  Best harness for wall climbing, no doubt.  Its the standard.

I am a normal to thinner size guy, 6'0" 160-165lbs.  Im no buff beast.  I thought, naturally I am a medium.  Well, I had a Shield medium, it was so big on me that on the last couple walls in the thing, it would chafe my hips raw.  While this was fun for entertaining my partners at the summit with my insanely chafed, brutalized looking hips, it was no fun for top stepping and hauling....in fact it sucked big time.

So I just picked up a size small (wtf!  Im not a small, that would be my girlfriend...), so I get a small.  It fits perfect.  I can cinch it down, stays tight ABOVE my hip bones. Its great. HOWEVER...the belay donut on the thing is so small that it causes the legs and swammy to pull tightly together against my junk.  I guess this is because in Yates sizes I am too tall and lean...


it just seems wierd.  They need to dial their sizes in, make them more normal...




end of rant.  Thanks for reading.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2009, 01:27:51 pm »
Waldo


that's all I'm saying. though, the shitter buckles drop seat action is not something to fiddle with if your in a panic to get that puppy down to do the biz.


Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2009, 01:35:07 pm »
I'm with you, I bought according to their size chart, and I have to cinch it almost all the way down.  I also hate the buckles (yes, I have the 2 piece red ones), hard to tighten, and they still slowly creep on me.

My 6'4" 220 lb partner had to get a Medium.  WTF?

Offline Caz

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2009, 03:43:33 pm »
Yeah, mine is a bit too big also. I've been wanting to try the Waldo but I get a deal with Yates and I had a problem with my last harness and they just gave me a new one (with double belay loops).


Maybe when I get some extra cash I'll get one. I've heard nothing but good about the Waldo...


Zac
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Offline del cross

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #4 on: September 30, 2009, 04:00:19 pm »
Sizes vary. My very first real harness was a BD Bod and I had to get a small even though I'm a medium in most things as well with every harness since.

The Yates is sized big. I ended up getting the medium but I have to cinch it ALL the way down, which isn't easy. The small would have fit but it wasn't just smaller, it was different in other ways. The leg loops and the gear loops weren't the same.

Even in the medium the rise is insufficient and nonadustable. Pinched nuts sometimes. Can't get the SP to sit there like it should. And the buckles are really hard to work. The first time I used it I couldn't double back the belt. My partner had to help me! Now I just leave it doubled back all the time and shuffle the belt through like that to get in and out.

I don't like my Shield harness but it is way more comfortable than what I had before.

Worse still is the fact that the harness buckle slips. I could barely believe it when I read the little piece of paper that came with my harness warning me that it would slip. The note suggested that I leave the tail of the belt flopping around to minimize slippage, but mine still slips on the order of an inch per day. Last year a partner had his Shield slip so much that at the end of one day he could take it off without loosening the belt. No, he was not skinny due to dehydration, the buckle slipped a lot. He no longer uses his Shield.

I didn't like the Waldo that much, it didn't feel right. But I wish I could go back and buy it instead of the Shield.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2009, 05:37:07 pm »
Interesting Del Cross.

I think if you send it to them they will add the little red double buckle that prevents the slippage.  I haven't seen mine slip at all with that, maybe a micron or two, but not what I would consider "slippage."

I guess I didn't really think about the Waldo, I may have tried it...

the Shield is damn comfy though.  I guess nothing is going to be perfect unless you really pay for it.

Offline Caz

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #6 on: September 30, 2009, 06:34:25 pm »
hoipolli,

Just a thought, but maybe you can get just the waist in small and the lower section in a medium. I think they will do things like that for you.

Never hurts to ask.

Zac
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Offline del cross

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #7 on: September 30, 2009, 07:51:46 pm »
It has the red double buckles. It came with a note that said something like "Don't tuck the belt in when you're hauling or else it will slip". I saw that and my jaw dropped. I've never heard of a harness buckle that slips like that, have you? I instantly lost a bunch of respect for Yates. So I never tuck the belt in, hauling or not, it flaps around, all 14" of it or whatever. Kind of annoying but I'm afraid if I tuck the belt in my harness will fall off someday.

Aside from the occasional scrotum pinch it is so much more comfortable than what I had before. My last harness caused me a lot of pain, I used to just about cry at the end of the day. The Yates is only bulky and annoying.

Ha! They used to use 1" webbing swamis without leg loops.


Offline Mike.

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #8 on: September 30, 2009, 10:48:45 pm »
Interesting chatter, guys.

I'd heard that from other Shield owners. Creepy. Who would sign up for that?


I've always said the stiffer the better for swamis. The Wild Things Raptor was the best wall harness ever made. Used really stiff, thin foam in the swami and leg loops, and still was super light. I'm hoping the BD Big Gun might be more that direction; didder, talk to us when you get back. I like the Waldo, but like many, they missed the chance to make it really comfortable and supportive. Big, floppy swamis are blowing smoke. I'm baffled why the simple concept of bracing support for tough manual labor is so lost on nearly all wall harness designers.

Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2009, 08:06:25 am »
Mike-

I have a BD Big Gun.  I got it when they first came out and I my wall climbing was still a big dream. haha.  I was able to get it cheap at the time so I picked one up.  I quickly realized that, for me at least, its no wall harness.  It is stiff and larger than a normal harness but it still chafes my hips pretty bad and doesnt provide anywhere near the support in the swami that I find is mandatory for those hanging belays.  I use it for all my traditional free climbing, I love it for that, I don't find it to be too bulky or anything, and it makes a long day on the stone a lot more comfortable, while still allowiing movement.  However, I think some of the new harnesses (of the last 6-8months) are huge improvements and would be just as comfortable and lower volume.



Anyone ever use the Misty Mountain Titan?  Bigger than the Cadillac, which is a great harness, it could be an option for anyone on the market.

Offline lunchbox

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #10 on: October 01, 2009, 09:43:22 am »
I'm 6' tall, have a 32" waist and weigh in at a trim 185lbs.  I wear a medium Shield harness and it fits me perfectly.  (sounds like a 12 step program?)

I've never had a problem with my Shield harness other than some major scrotum pinching from time to time.  I'm been thinking about switching to briefs for a more secure package cause the boxers just aren't cutting it.

The buckles creep a little over the course of long day of hauling and hanging but not very much in my experience and I've been using them since 2002 or so.  It has taken me a while to get used to the buckles but I'm able to get my harness ridiculously tight.  I do wear it much tighter than a free climbing harness cause I rack most of my cams on the swami plus jumars, hauler, lockers and the like.  A bulky haul line will also contribute to the creep.  I also tighten my harness every morning because I don't sleep well at night when its tight, so this has to help.   

All in all this is the best big wall harness I've used and would recommend it over the BD big gun and Metolius Waldo.  I'd love to check out the Misty Mt. Titan cause I love their Cadillac for long free climbs and light duty walls.

On a side note, you can get mixed sizes from Yates but you'll have to get your local climbing shop to call it in and check on availability.

Offline Greg German

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #11 on: October 01, 2009, 02:56:55 pm »
I'm 6'4" and 175, 32" waist (skinny by just about everyone's standards).
I've got a medium Yates Shield. I have to crank the belt to the end of the adjustment, but it feels pretty comfortable to me.
One trouble is with girth hitched daisy chains: they wrench the leg loops up to cause the scrotum pinch.
Slippage occurs, too. Evidence:

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #12 on: October 01, 2009, 03:06:52 pm »
Yeah as in the OP, I was concerned about how the belay loop was pulled tight.  But then I thought about it and realized that I will be girthing the legs and swami together which will just pull them together even more anyways.

I will just have to watch out for package pinch and deal with it (although I think its going to be super comfy once I adjust to the new fit, especially compared to bloody hips), unless I custom order some legs or something, which would probably be a pointless waist of money.



I know I am going to miss the 3 gear loops per side and probably hate the right side hammer holster... although again, Im sure I will get used to it, I really liked that holster in the back though.  I might put this funny adjustable/removable one I got with the BD on so it can go in the very back.  ....But then it does just spend a lot of time hanging below on hammer intensive pitches and doesn't really matter.....

Offline Caz

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #13 on: October 01, 2009, 04:15:41 pm »
I've used the Titan... It's not bad for walls in a push or a 2 day wall. As soon as you get into hauling big loads, or hauling for a few days the harness starts to rub your hips raw...

It is good for going from aid to free...
I do this for fun...

Offline del cross

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #14 on: October 01, 2009, 05:17:59 pm »
 Nice photo Greg, wow.... That reminds me, my partner started backing up his Shield bigwall harness with a tied sling. Yates should probably include a note advising all Shield owners to do this.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #15 on: October 01, 2009, 10:03:18 pm »
That harness looks like its too big though.  That is how my other one fit me, sorta.  This small I got I can really crank down.  I agree with Lunchbox, I never really saw significant slippage with the red buckles.

Offline T Moses

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #16 on: October 01, 2009, 11:23:01 pm »
I run a Yates Astroman for my regular harness and have taken it up a wall and two halfs.  I am a 37" waist and I bought a large.  I crank it all the way down and it is perfect.  Yates always runs big.  I was warned about it and adjusted the sizing accordingly.  Never looked back. 

I bought Hoi's old harness and it fits pretty well.  I am hoping to test drive it on Saturday at the local crag. 



Yates makes awesome stuff.  Burly and well designed.  Crazy sizing indeed.

Now where's my endorsment money? ;)

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #17 on: October 02, 2009, 12:50:18 pm »
ruskie aiders?

these seem really popular with you guys.  Brutus liked em.  (< munge make funny play on words there too)

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #18 on: October 02, 2009, 01:28:48 pm »
Ruskie aiders are a myth, nobody uses them.

The hooks are Unobtanium (still can't understand why all us Yankies want to use Titanium instead of stainless steel, what am I missing?!).  I believe they can only be bought from the same shop that sells fritctionless pulleys, room temperature superconductors, and similar kit.

Nowadays even getting double pass buckles that are any good is almost impossible...

Offline Caz

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #19 on: October 02, 2009, 02:25:37 pm »
^^^

Myth? ;)
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Offline T Moses

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #20 on: October 02, 2009, 03:06:18 pm »
No, my hooks are made from Cro-moly.  It's good rings that are made from unobtainium.  I think the original trango ones are to flimsy.  Made from mig-29 fuel line as the legend goes. 

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #21 on: October 08, 2009, 10:05:33 am »
I will just have to watch out for package pinch...

Based on a tip from the guy at the zion gear shop I ordered a medium shield waist (6' 185lbs) with the medium astroman legs.  Super comfy, and no pinchage.  Same price as the shield is normally. 

You could probably retrofit your harness with a pair of astro legs pretty cheap...

Offline KevinW

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #22 on: October 17, 2009, 03:51:11 am »
I'm just curious....  what's with all these *Big Waller's* using Shields? I went for the Yates "Big Wall", seemed to makes sense since that's what I wanted it for. The sizing does seem a little big, even after I measured and went by their sizing chart, but I'm glad now that I have the extra room as I find is so comfortable that I can't bring myself to wear anything else. I'm probably one of the only people you'll ever see ice climbing in a Yates Big Wall, but thanks to the large sizing I can get it over all my bulky layers during ice season. It's the most comfortable thing I own when it comes to gear. It's like sitting in a Lazy-Boy recliner compared to the BD or Pretzls I own. The only thing I've done was a little hot-knifing modification to the end of the swami webbing so it would be easier to feed through the buckle. All black buckles btw, and nothing slips.. ever.

Offline del cross

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #23 on: October 19, 2009, 07:43:20 pm »
"I'm just curious....  what's with all these *Big Waller's* using Shields? I went for the Yates "Big Wall", seemed to makes sense since that's what I wanted it for."

What's in a name? My previous harness was called the "Big Wall". The last wall I climbed in it was the Shield. After climbing the Shield I went and bought a "Shield" harness. Seems about as logical, doesn't it?

I would have considered the Yates Big Wall but I don't think I've ever even seen it for sale anywhere. Buy a harness for $100+ sight unseen? No way, not without a guarantee of free return if I don't like it.

Offline KevinW

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #24 on: October 29, 2009, 01:38:41 am »
I don't know... they look quite a bit different to me, but never having seen or used a Shield I couldn't honestly say.
I guess you would know though, if there was any subtantially noticable differences?
I went for the Big Wall because of the swami, the way it's padded. After breaking my back,
I wanted the most comfortable harness I could buy. I honestly think I got just that.

$100? I wish, I think my Big Wall was closer to $250 canuck-bucks by the time it arrived.
.......Yates Big Wall ........................................ Yates Shield




Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #25 on: November 03, 2009, 11:59:28 pm »
I miss using my purple Yates BW.   For the hammer holster mostly. 

Just picked up a replacement free climbing harness. 

Make sure to keep your harnesses in good shape.  RIP Todd Skinner.

Offline scottydo

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #26 on: November 04, 2009, 02:16:19 am »
Just want to say that I got a Metolius Waldo recently and while I haven't taken it up a wall yet, (haven't been able to climb outside much recently) I have sat in it for a couple hours at a time setting at the gym I climb at during the week and man....it is freakin' comfortable! I would have got the Yates if I could have, but I got the Waldo for a sweet deal and saved a bunch of money.

So i'm diggin' the Waldo. (but woulda got the Yates if i could have afforded it)

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #27 on: November 04, 2009, 11:53:02 am »
Scotty, I've got and used a Waldo. (Wall-Do, huh, i just got that, color me stupid)

I think you'll find that it is pretty sweet in real world applications too.

I'm still trying to figure out how to detach the leg loop holders quickly when the *need* arrives.


Offline johnmac

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #28 on: November 04, 2009, 12:47:36 pm »
I think Metolius will modify the Leg loops for you to allow quick escapes...

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Crazy Yates sizes...
« Reply #29 on: November 04, 2009, 01:15:55 pm »
mine are modified already


still kinda tricky because they are beefy

or are you saying they will put plastic buckles on for me?