Author Topic: Bunk rurps  (Read 3328 times)

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Offline blackrider

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Bunk rurps
« on: May 16, 2006, 02:01:09 am »
The other day I was out getting in some aid climbing practice in. The start of the route was a rickey old bolt ladder. Before starting I noticed a harline crack off to the left of the bolt ladder about 60ft up. From the ground I thought I could see a few places were I could drive in a few  thin knifeblade. So up the ladder I went . Upon gaing the hairline crack I discovered that what I thought might by some knifeblade placements ended up being old rurps already driven in. The problem was that they were missing their wires. I tried to pass them by drving in a few knife blades but could only get them to go about a 1/8th of a inch in the crack. Top stepping my third pin caused it to blow. To much outward pull for such marginal placements. Does anyone know how to deal with them if they are missing their wires. How do I deal with them If I come across them again. Should I have removed them? Is there a way to remove them and use the same placement?  Any advice would be appreciated.

Offline syrinx

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Bunk rurps
« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2006, 07:57:42 am »
Yes, I would try and remove them, just make sure you don't fuck up the climb in the process. As for how to remove them others probably have more experience than I do, but  here are my thoughts. Perhaps you could use vice grip pliers and then bang on thoese. Seems like they might slip on a really stuck placement though. You could also bring a wire, re-sling the suckers and then have at it, perhaps you cold put something through the wire and use it to pry with. Depending on how the exact placement is perhaps shove a nail through the hole and stick something between it and the wall to pry with. Someone probably has better advice than this....

Syrinx
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Offline mungeclimber

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Bunk rurps
« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2006, 12:30:03 pm »
a wire coat hanger piece would allow rethreading if the rurp isn't slammed home too far.

Offline syrinx

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Bunk rurps
« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2006, 03:08:29 pm »
Munge: Have you ever used a coat hanger before? Were you suggesting that as a way to clean, or as a way to use the current placement? Seems like it would not hold body weight.

Syrinx
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Offline Craig Peer

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Bunk rurps
« Reply #4 on: May 17, 2006, 11:36:04 am »
Can't you thread small perlon thru the holes so you can use them?

Offline blackrider

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Bunk rurps
« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2006, 02:50:02 pm »
I might be able to thread some cord through them. I would need to have had some needle nose pliers with me. The rurps were driven in right up to the holes. Don't think I could have munipulated anything through the eye with just my fingers. Looking back at what I had on my rack, nothing comes to mind that I could have used . Next time I go back I will try some of the suggestions made.

Offline syrinx

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Bunk rurps
« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2006, 07:44:15 pm »
If the edges are sharp on the piece it may cut the cord or it could work for a few times. I guess it's possible that some pieces get so stuck that they never come out.

Syrinx
Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

Offline Rags

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Bunk rurps
« Reply #7 on: May 17, 2006, 08:15:23 pm »
Dude you gotta get resourceful. Off the top of my head (since I haven't had this problem)

Use piece of 1/2" web that you carry for keepers and slip knot or girth hitch around the top of it and cinch it (if it looks like it won't slip off). You won't cut it unless you peel onto it, in which case you may pull it anyway.
or
Slide a rivet hanger over it and cinch it. Now you don't need to worry about cutting.
or
Use a small pecker to hook the hole in the RURP.
or
Thread a small wired nut through the hole so the nut end jams against it.

Last thing I'd consider is pulling it, unless I can determine that it's crap. If it's been in long enough to loose the wire that thing was pretty bomber, not to suggest it is now. However, pulling it may fuck the placement in a bottoming crack. Now your stuck trying to slam a head down or find a new placement.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

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Re: Bunk rurps
« Reply #8 on: May 09, 2009, 10:38:39 pm »
I used some shoestring on 2 rurps on the fourth pitch of the Trip.
Way scary. Held, though.

I was lighter, then.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2009, 09:46:04 pm by skully »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Bunk rurps
« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2009, 11:52:22 am »
Munge: Have you ever used a coat hanger before? Were you suggesting that as a way to clean, or as a way to use the current placement? Seems like it would not hold body weight.

Syrinx

missed this, sorry... the coat hanger is a way to jam some cord/webbing thru the eyelet. but if it's slammed home (hence maybe why the wire broke) it won't matter anyway. 

Offline KevinW

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Re: Bunk rurps
« Reply #10 on: May 10, 2009, 01:45:57 pm »
Over-driven iron of any type is one of my pet peeves. I ran into a similar rurp on suicide wall, the wire was still on it but it had been bashed in so far that the wire was mashed into the crack as well. I could see broken strands sticking out everywhere and wasn't about to clip it. The problem was, that the seam had become progressively tighter, and I wasn't able to even force my smallest KB into it. I thought I could see some hooking possibilities above it, so I took my small chisel, and using the corner, managed to make a small notch on the top of it, (a *little* rock came out in the process.. oooops) . I hooked the  notch with a flat/filed leeper, and gently bounce tested it. It was one of those pieces that you just expect to blow, but hope you can get up high enough and get something else in before it does. Once I got up on it, I could see that there was a small pocket in the seam just above my reach with what looked like the remnants of an old head, minus the wire. I clipped a pointed leeper to my aider and using a wired stopper under the hook, was able to reach just high enough to hook it. I didn't get a chance to bounce test this one though. Just the weight of my foot in the aider caused it to tip out and off came the hook and aider. I must have moved a bit, shifting my weight when the hook fell out, because the hook I was standing on, on the notched rurp *creaked*.
My asshole puckered, my knees started knocking. and I slowly backed down to an LA I had driven. I wasn't *bad enough* or *bold enough* for it that day. Had there been a sound placement or solid hook above it (or I had bigger nads) , it would have worked like a charm in this situation. Not that it would work in every case, just one possible solution to consider for over-driven rurps.
« Last Edit: May 11, 2009, 06:54:27 pm by KevinW »

Offline lunchbox

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Re: Bunk rurps
« Reply #11 on: May 12, 2009, 09:50:37 pm »
You can get a couple of loops of 2mm cord into the hole of most RURP's.  Of course it's not enough to whip onto but you can at least get past that shit. 
Given that a KB is 10x longer than an RURP I've never considered that as an option.  A small beak might work sometimes but usually your pretty screwed. 

The crazy thing is that most fixed RURP's are left over from the first few ascents, are really bomber and usually have scary ass cables. 

That's what makes A3 so much fun...........

Offline Baltoro

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Re: Bunk rurps
« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2009, 11:57:47 am »
You can get fairly beefy keychain rings that will still fit through Rurp holes. Bodyweight I'm sure but should be good enough for a move and they aren't super hard to thread through the hole.
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Offline KevinW

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Re: Bunk rurps
« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2009, 02:54:30 pm »
I have to admit, I misread this post originally, and was thinking of the buried rurp I had to deal with. If the holes are still showing, ya.. just thread some small cord through them. I'm assuming the problem was the you didn't have any small cord with you at the time?
I always carry a small bundle of 2mm and 4mm cord in the top of my pack, it comes in handy for repairing a lot of things right down to shoelaces. Out of curiosity, I tried feeding some cord through my rups, and was able to thread a piece of 5mm through without a any problem, with the wire still in place.