Author Topic: What routes keep you up at night  (Read 1696 times)

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Offline Doctor-Man!

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What routes keep you up at night
« on: November 06, 2009, 03:06:03 pm »
Hey all -

I've been lurking here for a couple of weeks and I think I found a forum that I'm actually willing to post things to, so here goes.  What route or wall or destination do you find yourself constantly thinking about, perhaps to the point of obsessiveness?  I'll start with one that I'm fairly certain that no one has ever seen.  It has been a goal of mine for the last two years, however I am afraid to go for it solo and until recently, had not found the ideal partner(that along with a long list of other excuses, some worthy, others not).  All that I'll say is this is in Southeast Alaska and frequently gets hit with Patagonia quality storms at any time of the year with little to no notice.  The wall is about 1800 feet from base to summit and tops out at close to 7000' above sea level.  Not super high but pretty vicious when you're at 59 - 60 degrees latitude.  I find myself staring at the photo over and over and can't wait to get back next season.  The rock is similar to the diorite on NA wall but with more sustained looseness. The peak itself has never been summitted and is unnamed.


My buddy Mike accompanying me on a recon mission.  In this photo we are still several miles from the glacier at the base of the wall. A full traverse of the range from right to left has been attempted but has been shut down due to weather.  The pointy sharks fin looking peak has been climbed, but nothing farther left (north)

Left side of the Range.  The rock left of the obvious formation gets more and more fractured and loose the farther you go with the light grey / brown rock on the far left being more dust than rock.

Just a line that I've tele-scoped and feel would be the proud / obvious way up the big face. Figure the line would be somewhere between 12 and 15 pitches to an untouched summit.

So, it's your turn...Lets hear 'em!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: What routes keep you up at night
« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2009, 03:50:42 pm »
holy mother of all that is holy!

well welcome aboard the sick train OCD Express!!!



right now what I'm obsessed over is certain clean granite crags that I really want to do in good style.  I know I'm not really ready for them, but I go anyways and flub around a bit.  but they still stick in the brain.




by the time Spring roles around I'll be obsessed over Freakshow again. 


Also, the pics over on mudncrud have me jonesing for Rivet Queen. Not sure why, but that isn't keeping me up at night.


have you started making arrangements for how to get back there?

Offline Doctor-Man!

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Re: What routes keep you up at night
« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2009, 04:15:57 pm »
Getting back really isn't too hard, I think it's the one unclimbed alpine project that you can walk to...it just takes about a day or so to get to the base.  As far as AK goes, I'll be driving back in the spring.  It's in the "Sawtooth" range (I sometimes wonder how many ranges have been named sawtooth) between Alaska and the Yukon on the Klondyke Highway.  from the road it's probably about the same distance as hiking to half dome (on trail, not slabs), or just a little farther.  from the photo with my friend in it, we're probably 2/3 of the way in from the road.

Offline Mike.

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Re: What routes keep you up at night
« Reply #3 on: November 06, 2009, 05:43:37 pm »
Hey, Bill!

Nice plunge into the BW.com. Thanks for the sweet post. I'll put some thought into this and babble later. Right now...welcome, my friend. Cheers!

Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Caz

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Re: What routes keep you up at night
« Reply #4 on: November 06, 2009, 06:13:39 pm »
Welcome Doc!

Good topic and great pics!

I've been focused on Aquarian Wall for a long time now.


Zac
I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: What routes keep you up at night
« Reply #5 on: November 06, 2009, 07:21:26 pm »
The route I will embark upon this Winter is first. Trouble with obsessing on it is I haven't Quite picked it yet! El Cap, though.
Arrrggh.
There are several others.
Welcome to our forum, Good Doc.
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Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: What routes keep you up at night
« Reply #6 on: November 06, 2009, 08:07:30 pm »
I'm not sure about it keeping me up at night, but I've had the wall of early morning light on my ticklist since I read harding's "downward bound" in high school.  Getting on 20 years now, I should really do something about it  :)

Welcome to the forum, doc!

Offline scottydo

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Re: What routes keep you up at night
« Reply #7 on: November 08, 2009, 07:58:52 am »
Seeing as how I've wanted to do El Cap for about 2 years now (I know...i'm fairly inexperienced compared to most folks here), I do dream about climbing every now and then because i think about it so much. Doesn't keep me up though. If all goes well next spring I'll hopefully get to do the regular route on Half Dome which hopefully will satify that urge for at least a little bit.

Offline Didder

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Re: What routes keep you up at night
« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2009, 10:39:50 pm »
I have copies of the topo in my pocket, in my car, next to my bed, scanned into my Iphone... you get the idea. Oh yes I am obsessed. Of course the route has changed now 3 times so it is the latest one that I am most obsessed with since it seems weather permitting that will be the line we pick. I do believe however that I am most obsessed with whatever climb happens to be the next route and can't go a half a day without looking at the topo.

Offline Mike.

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Re: What routes keep you up at night
« Reply #9 on: November 27, 2009, 05:33:28 am »
Damn, didder. You really are kept up by this stuff. It's either that or big wall dreams. How bout both!

Cheers and happy long weekend to all who have jobs.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.