Author Topic: Leaning Tower  (Read 1322 times)

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Offline Shoobert

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Leaning Tower
« on: November 08, 2009, 12:25:24 pm »
Hey guys,
we want to do the west face route on leaning tower, but we do not have a portaledge.
So we planned to climb to awahnee ledge, fix the next 2 pitches and bivy at awahnee. Next day we top out.
Do you think a portaledge is necessary or recommended? For example if the ledge is often crouded?

Offline lambone

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Re: Leaning Tower
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2009, 01:48:30 pm »
good plan, you don't need a ledge, but beware Ahwanne is crowded with two parties. and yes it's often crowded, especially on weekends. Mid week or off-peak season is your best bet.

doing the approach, getting to A_Ledge and fixing the next two pitches is a big day, consider approaching and fixing p1 the night before. A nice mellow pace is bivi at the base, bivi at awhanee, bivi at the summit.

there is a nice flat bivi ledge at the summit too, consider sleeping there rather then doing the decent in the dark.

good luck, it's a great first wall, and wildly steep!
« Last Edit: November 08, 2009, 01:59:07 pm by lambone »

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Leaning Tower
« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2009, 06:24:09 pm »
I have done it both ways, If you don't see anybody around it is pretty cool to take your time on that wall, P7 is a good place to bivy with ledges.

Like Lambone said, fix 1 then go hard the next day, going from the ground to top of 6 in a day is harder than it appears.

Link 1+2, 3+4, it goes pretty quick just clip every 3rd or 5th bolt.


Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Leaning Tower
« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2009, 09:56:00 pm »
Yeah, no portaedges needed, but watch the crowds.  Put a couple extra days in your schedule just in case you are slowed by crowds.  Awhanee can sleep 4 dudes no problem, and up to 6 if you don't mind the smell of wall feet in your face all night.  The last time I was one it we had there and only one guy was whiney in the AM (he was kinda whiney before that too).

I've done car to P4 solo once and couldn't move the next day, and don't recommend it.  Try to keep your pace modest or you'll get frazzled that first day from all the driving, hiking up talus, followed by the sense of gloom from not hitting your target.

Spend a day to get P1+2 fixed and get all your crap to the catwalk.  The hike in and ferrying gear across the catwalk can easily burn much more of a day than you might realize, especially if you do 1.5-2 trips to ferry it all in (I bring too much crap...).

Going from Awhanee to the topout is a solid day at normal noob pace, and is plenty doable without fixing to 6.  If your intent is to topout as well as descend in a single day from Awhanee then you definitely need to get 6 fixed and move your butt.  The descent should not be done by head lamp unless you've done it once or twice before.

I'd also recommend against linking 9+10.  It works, but doing 7, 8+9, then 10 lets the belayer be much more comfortable at P9. and avoids the rope drag problem before it starts.

My $0.02
« Last Edit: November 09, 2009, 10:05:40 am by Garbonzo »

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: Leaning Tower
« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2009, 10:47:52 pm »
I've done car to P4 solo once and couldn't move the next day, and don't recommend it.  Try to keep your pace modest or you'll get frazzled that first day from all the driving, hiking up talus, followed by the sense of gloom from not hitting your target.

Man that sounds like day one of every solo trip I've done  :)

I budget 4 pitches/day and then don't factor in driving/approach/setup and then I start day 2 feeling under the gun.

Offline BriGuy

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Re: Leaning Tower
« Reply #5 on: November 09, 2009, 07:31:46 pm »


Colorful stone up there. Anyway you do it, it will be fun.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Leaning Tower
« Reply #6 on: November 10, 2009, 02:50:59 pm »
On the first day try not to plan too much, just get up there an established on the route. I never like to put myself under much pressure on day one... Pace yourself and then on day 2 you'll do really well...