Author Topic: Russian Aiders, revenge of the Trangos  (Read 1809 times)

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Offline Garbonzo

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Russian Aiders, revenge of the Trangos
« on: November 23, 2009, 10:39:29 pm »
So, got an old haggard set of Trangos with worn our webbing and el sucko buckles?  Got a burly sewing machine?  Here's your guide to redo them from scratch, recycling your old hook.

Warning:  In multiple places there are high load webbing joints where you must sew through 3 layers of thick webbing with lots of stitches.  You'll break you're wife's machine if you try it on a home machine, and probably won't even get it under the foot.  A low end single stitch industrial machine will do fine with #69 or #92 thread, and can be gotten at Harbor Freight for ~400 bucks ($279 for the head, and $129 for the table last I checked), or watch craigslist till one in good shape shows up.  A speed reducing pulley, or servo motor with a low speed setting is HIGHLY recommended as most of the sewing is small runs, and high speed is NOT needed.  Better yet, rework this design for a bartacker if you have one.
Marking nylon for sewing isn't as easy as you'd think.  A dot of sharpie works, but is ugly and might weaken things.  I use a craft store chalker.  It uses powdered chalk and as a little metal nubby wheel that does a good job of easily making marks that last long enough to get your sewing done, yet the marks quickly disappear in simple handling.  I've yet to find anything else as good and cheap.
Hard Supplies:
1.  Your used Trango hooks.
2.  Aluminum Double Pass 1" from innermountainoutfitters.com.  Either make your own like Theron, or hit up gonzoguanogear.com.  The gal there was nice enough to sell me the nice ones you see in this refurb for just a few bucks each, a deal.  Get 4 per set of cuffs.
3.  Alternatively you can use a 1" cinch buckle for the calf strap from either gonzoguanogear.com, or from onrope1.com.  The one shown here is the same from either outfit, and is plenty strong.  Be warned that it does have the webbing go over a cinch bar that becomes a wear point, especially in muddy dihedrals.

Soft Supplies:
1.  4-5mm neoprene for padding?
2.  100 weight Polartech 100 fleece.
3.  Polyester 2" seatbelt webbing from rei.com or similar.
4.  Nylon Webbing, 1", about 102" total per leg (9' per color for ordering purposes).  I find tubular nicer to sew with than thick flat.  Climb spec is also a bit thick and I break a lot of thread and needles when I try to use it, so I recommend starting with Mil Spec.  I think the ridgier texture might also creep less in the buckles?
5.  56" thin flat 1.5" webbing for foot rash guards.
6.  30" 1" heavy duty elastic.
7.  3" hook side velcro
8.  6" loop side velcro
Cut List (per aider):
For a 15" calf circumference (right below knee) cut the following (all 2x, 1 each for each leg):
1.  15"x3"  neoprine, chamfer the corners 3/16" (adjust up or down for size, inch for inch)
2.  16.5"x7 1/2" fleece covering (adjust up or down for size)
3.  14.5" 2" seatbelt webbing (adjust up or down for size, measure is 1/2" less than the calf measurement)
4.  30" 1" tubular webbing, one end cut at 45, increase inch for inch over 17" circumference (length is to the middle of 45 cut, used for cinch strap around calf)
5.  48" 1" tubular webbing one end at 45 degree for jug loop and most of stirrup, adjust up if you are huge
6.  14" 1" tubular for stirrup buckle (adjust up if you are huge and want to keep the buckle low and out of the way)
7.  10" 1" tubular for attaching the buckle to the hook.  Use an 8" piece if using the cinch style buckles
7.  2x 14" 1.5" thin flat for rash guard
8.  15" elastic for chicken strap
9.  1.5" hook velcro for chicken strap
10. 3" loop velcro for chicken strap


Marking Nylon/Polyseter Webbing
I tried a lot of things, soap stone, vanishing fabric pens, pins, etch.  By far the best I've found is this widget my wife had but hated for quilting purposes.  It uses powdered chalk and has a little textured wheel for dispensing/grounding in.  Being chalk I have little fear that it will affect the nylon, and it mostly just disappears with handling.  You can also mark things using a dot of sharpy pen, but as we all know shrarpy pens are on the bad list for affecting nylon, and you'll have annoying black dots everywhere.  Sharpy doesn't help much on black webbing either.

Padding:
In Process
Rash Guard:
a.  Sew the two 14" thin flat pieces of webbing together to make a tube, keeping your sewing within 1/8-3/16" of the edge, back tack at the ends (sew over the edge twice if using #69 thread, once for #92).




Cuff:
a.  Sew the top of the jug loop into the 48" piece of webbing (mark at 1" and 2" on one side, 6.5" on the other side, 8" for Theron's hooks).
b.  Sew the buckle strap into the jug loop (carefully mark this before sewing!).
c.  Sew the calf strap into the jug loop
d.  Thread on the hook, and sew the buckle into place.
e.  Sew the calf strap.








f.  Sew the lower buckle onto the end of the 13.5" strap
g.  Thread the end through the lower part of the buckle and sew onto the 48" piece
h.  Sew the entire assembly onto the 2" webbing (simply a force spreader for comfort)








Thread on the Rash Guard:



 
« Last Edit: November 23, 2009, 10:46:08 pm by Garbonzo »