Author Topic: ..took the pigs for a walk saturday...  (Read 2230 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline offset

  • A3+ Copper Bender
  • *****
  • Posts: 235
    • View Profile
..took the pigs for a walk saturday...
« on: December 09, 2009, 04:54:39 pm »
So with the great weather we've been having up here in the PNW, cold..but SUNNY... i thought it might be a good chance to have a go at a local backcountry wall here.   The back side of exfoliation dome near darrington WA has  several old adventure routes.   we were aiming to climb VooDoo wall.  a route put up by an acquaintance about 6 years ago.  6 pitches 5.9 A2  (aren't they all)  i don't know how often any of these routes get done but i've really only seen beta in an old book i have where the rack recomendations for every climb include so much iron that the actual pages are rusty.  anyway - my partner and i loaded up on winter bivy gear ...got on the dark, icey roads by 4:30 am  driving north in the new, old approach truck.   

Having gotten up at 3am i'm in no mood to talk and the new/old truck has no working radio - so my partner is blasting his frank zappa cell phone app.  this does very little to convince me i should be awake.  eventually we get to the trail head, dig out the ghetto blaster kit and start sorting the gear.   equalize the pig loads, strap on the warm plastic boots and start walking.   the approach beta we have is to follow the old logging road till hit hits a stream and switches back.  take the swithback for ~100 yds and get on a "trail" towards the wall...   this beta is...  well...  not good. 

long story short - we are bushwhacking and going up steep non-trail for about 5 hours till we finally see our objective... still very far away and accross a not-yet-snowed-over slide alder field.  it's about 200 yards wide but takes us a full hour and half to cross.  It is now 1pm...3.5 hours till the  sun goes down and at least, at this pace, another hour and half to the base.   we talk it over and realize we won't be roped up till just before dark.  so we drop the pigs and go to the base just to take a look.   good decision here, as the final bit of the approach to the actual base is icy slabs.    we take an hour to throw rocks at icicles then head back to our pigs. 

for the way back we decide to just follow the stream bed back... low and behold this takes us RIGHT BACK TO THE CAR with very little to NO shwacking.    in other words - the approach beta should be:  "park car, follow stream to pitch one, tie in".     

  10 hours round trip and the ropes only got taken out of the pigs once, because our headlamps were packed under them.    we drive back to seattle, stopping at red robbin for calorie and alcohol replacement. 

.....TRAINING......

(pics....eventually)

skully

  • Guest
Re: ..took the pigs for a walk saturday...
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2009, 08:09:03 pm »
Oh, Man......Tragic.
Sometimes, though, ya gotta chalk one up to the epic gods.
They're not just sittin' around, waiting for you to get on a route.
When we approached Angel Wings the first time, it was pretty bushy & thwacky. Figured out a MUCH better approach on the way back to our trailside camp. Hey, at least NOW you know how to get up there, eh? Awesome training. It'll make you tough, if it don't kill ya.
Cheers.

Offline mec

  • Posts: 3
    • View Profile
Re: ..took the pigs for a walk saturday...
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2009, 09:02:18 am »
funny, that is almost identical to what my partner and I did a couple months ago... brutal hike in with a pig on your back. we didn't take the streambed down, but that sounds like a good idea. what made out trip a bit epic, was we ran into a couple of hornets nest, and got stung a few times. hard to run away from that, while bushwacking with a pig.
plan to get back up there sometime next year, and will bring a machete to help with that trail.

Offline offset

  • A3+ Copper Bender
  • *****
  • Posts: 235
    • View Profile
Re: ..took the pigs for a walk saturday...
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2009, 09:39:09 am »
hey mec...    you're talking about the witchdoctor wall approach also?  does this mean you have some beta for the wall?? 

Offline mec

  • Posts: 3
    • View Profile
Re: ..took the pigs for a walk saturday...
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2009, 02:18:59 pm »
yes, witchdoctor wall. we were heading up to do voodoo wall as well. I've got some beta, topos, mainly what I have found online, and have chatted with a couple of folks.

Have you seen the TR on the first ascent:
http://www.alpinedave.com/darrington/Voodoo/Voodoo_Wall.htm

David Whitelaw's e-guide on CD has some info too.

any specific info you are looking for?

Offline offset

  • A3+ Copper Bender
  • *****
  • Posts: 235
    • View Profile
Re: ..took the pigs for a walk saturday...
« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2009, 02:30:27 pm »
yup - dave's TR is what we were going by and the route we were going for. 

nothing extra specifically - just wondering if there was anything more current than the old 'climbing washington' book. 

Offline mec

  • Posts: 3
    • View Profile
Re: ..took the pigs for a walk saturday...
« Reply #6 on: December 10, 2009, 02:37:50 pm »

David Whitelaw's eGuide is more current. It is called Rattle and Slime. I bought it about 5 or 6 years ago, and doing a search, it looks like he is still selling them, but it is on alpine dave's website:
http://www.alpinedave.com/darrington/rock/index.htm

good info in there, with some pitch by pitch descriptions too.

Offline Mike.

  • Bigwall Shaman
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 911
    • View Profile
Re: ..took the pigs for a walk saturday...
« Reply #7 on: December 10, 2009, 05:16:58 pm »
Looks like a great place to go climbing. Nice tell, too.

If it were me I'd have left the gear out there and called it a load hump.

Hope you get to back soon...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline slabbyd

  • A1 fiend
  • **
  • Posts: 32
    • View Profile
Re: ..took the pigs for a walk saturday...
« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2009, 12:50:45 pm »
Thats a really, really bold plan with this weather we're having!  Way to try and get after it.