Author Topic: A3 granite in the Valley  (Read 1884 times)

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Offline mungeclimber

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A3 granite in the Valley
« on: January 01, 2010, 08:04:44 pm »
hey all,

Need your help with a recommendation for some A3 in the Valley somewhat close to the ground.  Old A3 or new wave is fine.

A4 if there is any is welcome too.


skully

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #1 on: January 01, 2010, 08:54:20 pm »
Negative Pinnacle. Left side used to be A3, Center A4. Right side is like 5.11 or something....hard 11.
Minerals did "outer negative" to the right. Wild guess. There ya go.
« Last Edit: January 01, 2010, 08:57:02 pm by skully »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #2 on: January 01, 2010, 10:01:03 pm »
I don't know about that long approach though. ;)

thx Skull, that should be good in winter too hopefully with it getting sun in the a.m.

Offline Mike.

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2010, 11:34:04 am »
mungie, Maybe check out Minerals' Practice Aid Circuit thread on ST...not recalling what's in it, but no doubt it has possibilities.

I would peruse topos of south-facing formations and hit the first couple pitches of standard wall routes where applicable. Many of the standard harder routes will have the low pitches far more worked than the upper. I would probably be looking more at harder second pitches if ya catch the drift, but doing em off the deck is sure good mental training. I'm not much for dissecting the ratings; above C2 it all seems like it can get hard and scary to me. Off the top...

P1 of South Seas (probably the sweetest EC pitch off the deck; pitch 2-3 is like C1-2)
Low ZM pitches
Low Reanimator pitches
Low pitches of Electric Ladyland, esp P2
Low PO pitches (easier, one scary sharp edge)

Guessing there will be possibilities at Arches, no book at hand.

X-Crack wall at Tahquitz is a bitchin winter hang and has three short lines worth scaring yourself on. Some bad fall potential. All bolts replaced in the last several years (none will keep one off the deck in crux rippers). Did you mention a SoCal foray? Forest lawn at Suicide seems to be popular, but I haven't done it. There always Flying Circus ; }

Keep stoked on the gear climbin'!


BTW, I did locate that red thingie I was looking for...coming your way as soon as I uproot.



Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2010, 11:57:15 am »
gracias!

Offline lambone

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2010, 05:30:30 pm »
P1 Lost in America is solid A3.

Be carefull close to the ground...consequences are high. I almost bit the dust on that LIA pitch when a solid looking head blew as I was moving into the top steps...then the next one blew, and if the Alien had blown I would have landed on my back from 30ft up in jagged boulders. That was one lucky Alien placement.

P1 ZM is said to be A3, though I found it to be pretty cruiser.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2010, 05:37:41 pm by lambone »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2010, 05:37:51 pm »
werd, thx for heads up

looking for a taste, not a mouthful, gotta build in the skills by practice. easy to drape a rope over the top of something else too.

worse to worse I'll find something obscure on SPH in the Spring.


skully

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2010, 07:37:20 pm »
Do the 1st pitch of South Seas or The Tempest, somethin' over there.

well, maybe not the Tempest, eh?

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2010, 08:52:09 pm »
werd, I'll start checking the books a little closer this week.

skully

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2010, 10:47:35 pm »
Hey, Munge, When we climbed South Seas, We let Scott Lennox lead the first pitch, even though he had to jet back to his school.
He dug it & we got bonus lazing & heckling time.
A grand time was had by All!

Offline jake

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #10 on: January 14, 2010, 11:10:44 am »
Doing the first few of ZM or Shortest Straw could be fun.  I think doing the first 3 pitches of Shortest Straw would be a really good way to spent the weekend.  Wish I could do that this weekend!  The first couple pitches of Native Son look fun.  BLaw has a few base routes that are rated A3, forget the names but one is by Negative Pinnacle  and the other by Tempest. 

skully

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Re: A3 granite in the Valley
« Reply #11 on: January 14, 2010, 12:52:09 pm »
That's "Outer Negative" by the Negative Pinnacle.
He also did a shorty on The Column, right of GSR.