Author Topic: PREMEDITATED part 2 TR  (Read 2172 times)

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Offline *Mucci*

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PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« on: January 07, 2010, 11:07:37 am »
Well, turns out the crux of this route for me was waiting 2+ weeks to get back to the second pitch.  I had way too much time to think.  I was in the "Mode" when myself and Tyler met up with Munge at the parking lot, a few laughs and we were off to finish this beast!

A helping hand and a med beak eliminated the need to climb the A3 off the belay to set up the tension traverse.  The section we avoided was by far the worst looking rock on the entire route.
A few semi free moves yield a ok red alien placement, followed by a blue alien to get established in the corner proper.



Finally in the corner which was thin, mostly arrows and small cams.

The corner went by smoothly, then I hit the tenuous section. The seam vanished and I began the searching for a good way to get up to the roof.  This required some rubble removal and a hook followed by a expanding placement that kept spitting out gravel and dust.  Whew!

Setting a crumbly hook.


This section up to the roof was very marginal.  Blow it toward the top and your looking at a huge fall potential, with a ledge and corner to navigate around on the way down, PDH mentally.
The roof crack was all arrows driven straight up. 



About the time I was in the middle of the roof, a teenager made his way up to the base.  After Tyler warned him of falling rock he decided to climb up the small buttress to the left of where we were.  Toiling around he found himself contemplating a 20 foot jump down to a grassy terrace which was another 40 feet to the ground!  I warned him, as did Tyler that doing so would be a death wish.  He was having none of it!  I watched him attempt to get in position when I hear from the belay "Hey man, I really don't want to come off this thing to initiate a body recovery, find another way off!"  Or something like that.  I was laughing so hard hanging there under the roof!  Munge was stern and it worked, he found another way off.  All three of us thought this kid was dead, and all due to an effort to impress his hiking buddies.

Now I've got this thing by the throat!  I nail left and can see the belay!  WHOOP!  As I place a very bad small arrow in an expanding flake I know it has a time limit.  I get the daisy ready to clip the bolt, highstep and make the move.  SLACK!!! OH GOD!!!  I watched the arrow explode the rock and shift down a half inch!  "No way Mucci! not on the last placement! One move and you got it in the bag"  I say to myself as I make a half dyno for the bolt hanger.  Clipped in and now this mother is finished!

Munge then set out to clean the pitch, very efficient and yielding Bridwell's hammer for cleaning, he funked out all the pins with ease.  He had a few laughs at the gear, and followed the traverse by clip cleaning and using his grigri.  Very smooth indeed!
Leaving the belay

A Mudbeak Placement

Hitting the traverse

At the belay, very happy to be done with the adventure


So, we had a plan, good beta, and that highly sought after Pinnacles Passion for early repeats.  I would like to thank Brad and DES for the great info and the new bolts at the belay's, those guys had nothing to go on when they did it, which surely made the ascent more spicy. 

Throughout the two trip it took to finish this route, we had birds following us.  First it was the sparrow, when we were racking up, then the swallow by the truck and finally the Condor that wanted a look at me while at the belay.  This huge beast was literally 30 feet away from me.  Floating around he took a b-line for me and I thought he was going to attack me!  Munge saw me scream and curl up at the belay, He got so close I could see his eyes!  Absolutely Beautiful!

Having Jim's hammer with us gave us the psych.  To do this route is one thing, but having the tool of my hero alongside made this ascent go from a dream to a reality.  The Bird was definately with us!

I hope we set the bar high for future recipients of JB's hammer, it's the only way he would want it.

Cheers,

Mucci

A special thanks to Tyler Martin for ground support, suicide watch, and photography.  It's nice to have a 3rd for the pictures.  Not to mention he and munge figured out at the end of the day they had climbed together years ago!  HAHa!

Offline distantfellow

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Re: PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2010, 04:44:16 pm »
Awesome write-up! Thanks.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« Reply #2 on: January 12, 2010, 12:33:55 am »
wow, I'm still psyched by the pics tyler took.


Offline *Mucci*

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Re: PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« Reply #3 on: January 12, 2010, 07:24:31 pm »
Big fun up there no doubt, We could not have asked for better photos.



Offline mungeclimber

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Re: PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2010, 12:11:45 am »

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2010, 10:27:44 pm »
Whoa munge, I didn't see this video.

Nice work, I like how I was speaking in tongues to the choss.

Pinnacles aid climbing rules.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2010, 08:57:32 am »
where you been?  posted on mud and curd and here, though I haven't yet bumped it on the taco. wasn't sure the interest was really there... then again that never stopped me posting up inane questions.