Author Topic: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots  (Read 1994 times)

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Offline hoipolloi

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El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« on: January 10, 2010, 11:16:42 pm »
which have and which have not, obviously there are tons of obvious ones that have not been done in the winter.  But which of the more ... normal ... routes still lack a winter ascent?


Offline Mike.

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Re: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« Reply #1 on: January 11, 2010, 09:58:11 am »
Edited.



It's not like California Winters any true test of alpinism, but it's a fun distinction anyway. I got colder in early Dec than in Feb on a record snow year.

I'm not a compendium on this info but I'll spill what I know and happily add any winter specific info to this list:


Zodiac - Probably the most-done winter EC route. Runoff sporadically hits the fist several pitches, depending on wind.

Tangerine Trip - Guessing second-most. Pretty sheltered the entire way. Ice frisbees can hit the base of the overhanging wall. The last pitch could be scary or impossible if iced up.

Aurora - A decent variation to the Trip. Runoff douses P(x) as well as intermittently hits the belay at the start of the pitch. Other pitches have runoff seeping down the wall.

ZM - FWA (7th overall) in (?) by Shipley/Middendorf.

Lost in America - Climbed in (?) by T. Thompson and partner.

Mescalito - Climbed by Muggs Stump and partner in 3 days.

Genesis - Climbed solo by Steve Schneider 12/09-1/10.


I'll document a route here as I learn of a specific winter ascent, preferably the earliest chronologically.

« Last Edit: January 11, 2010, 02:38:19 pm by Mike. »
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Offline *Mucci*

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Re: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2010, 01:37:36 pm »
Pacemaker
On the waterfront :) Bring the Tools? Or any one of those Klaus routes over there?
Heavy metal + TT
Bermuda dunes
Tempest




Offline hoipolloi

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Re: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2010, 03:33:55 pm »
Mucci, you have posted some of the obvious ones^^

has heavy metal TT even seen a second or a third?

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« Reply #4 on: January 12, 2010, 05:27:56 pm »
HOI-

There is a TR on Heavy's second ascent?  I can't remember where it is but it was a good read.

Maybe on the Fish's site?

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« Reply #5 on: January 12, 2010, 10:02:09 pm »
I don't know about El Cap, but has anyone done "El Princepe Pequeno"

I just saw a post by "Brandon" on ST that mentions it.  Grant Hiskes route.

Offline jake

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Re: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2010, 11:02:19 am »
I don't know about El Cap, but has anyone done "El Princepe Pequeno"

I just saw a post by "Brandon" on ST that mentions it.  Grant Hiskes route.

Doubt that has been repeated, it is a variation to El Nino, another route put up by Brandon Thau and Grant Gardner.  I read some report back in the day on those routes and they sounded high quality.

skully

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Re: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2010, 06:00:14 pm »
I spent 8 days on Kaos, in full Winter conditions.
Yeah, we were worried. El Nino year.
We bailed from the ZM junction, down aided 2 pitches.....
6 ropes to the ground. No summit, therefore a failure.
Be ready.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2010, 07:33:07 pm by skully »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2010, 11:25:16 pm »
Doubt that has been repeated, it is a variation to El Nino, another route put up by Brandon Thau and Grant Gardner.  I read some report back in the day on those routes and they sounded high quality.

Jake

ah, ok. thx for the correction.


Skully, sounds grim.