Author Topic: New Yosemite Bigwall guides  (Read 17750 times)

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Offline Jack Herer

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #90 on: April 05, 2010, 10:12:08 am »
Mike-

How did they drill it, if a cheat stick is mandatory? Tell me they didn't bring a willy stick up there with them haha... no seriously though, how can you put rivets in on lead and then have it require a cheat stick. Thanks!

Offline Mike.

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #91 on: April 05, 2010, 12:34:49 pm »
Some kind of shenanigans like that, jh.

I suggest a few winds of tape around your hammer handle.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #92 on: April 05, 2010, 12:49:47 pm »
Hi Mike,

I guess aid climbing rating will always be subjective.

Sure, I climbed Re-animator. Didn't need a cheater stick for the rivets(though I"ll add "reachy" in the topo. Definitely didn't think the climbing was A1. But sure, like many routes--if you've done the climbing up to that point you'll send.

cheers
e

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #93 on: April 06, 2010, 01:17:30 am »
I heard Kohl had some sort of board set up that hung at about the grab loop height of his aider.  He could put a foot in it to 'stem' backwards and stand SUPER high in his aiders to drill his amazing rivet ladders.  Also, I have heard he had lots of tricks (isn't that half the fun of aiding?) like a 'friend of a friend' to get those cam placements that are just that far off....

clever, very clever thinking.

Offline jake

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #94 on: April 06, 2010, 10:21:11 am »
I don't think Klaus drilled with the board set, I think Walt did but that is only rumor. 

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #95 on: April 06, 2010, 11:50:59 pm »
I heard Kohl had some sort of board set up that hung at about the grab loop height of his aider.  He could put a foot in it to 'stem' backwards and stand SUPER high in his aiders to drill his amazing rivet ladders.  Also, I have heard he had lots of tricks (isn't that half the fun of aiding?) like a 'friend of a friend' to get those cam placements that are just that far off....

clever, very clever thinking.

whoa?

stemming backwards to stabilize.  talk about making a 2d world 3d.  i think i can visualize this.

I've seen another boarding thing online somewhere to establish sport routes, I think.

Offline Jack Herer

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #96 on: April 07, 2010, 12:16:06 am »
ya munge this is what i was talking about in my post.... http://www.climbingtrash.com/thewillystick.html

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #97 on: April 07, 2010, 12:32:45 am »
ya munge this is what i was talking about in my post.... http://www.climbingtrash.com/thewillystick.html

that's it!  thx!

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #98 on: April 09, 2010, 10:19:44 am »
Interesting!  That is not what I was talking about, but an interesting idea.

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #99 on: April 12, 2010, 12:38:50 am »
Yo Gang,

Cheers from AK. I"m visiting family and can't get the upload together for this week. Hoping to finish Astroman, Quantum Mechanic and Crosstown Traffic this week so hopefully a trifecta for you next Sun.

best
e

Offline alpinist63

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #100 on: April 15, 2010, 07:58:03 am »
thanks a lot for these topos, absolutely great....and certainly a lot of work!
another route, pretty good apparently but for which I couldn't find a topo except in the old Don Reid guidebook is Sunkist.
would make an excellent sunday-topo:)

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #101 on: April 17, 2010, 07:47:49 pm »
many requests for Sunkist. Just about got that one finished so by the time it's coming in season in a month or so I should have it up.

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #102 on: April 18, 2010, 11:36:29 am »
Dante's Inferno, a moderate nailer in a sweet(wet right now)spot:

http://cid-ac7b92e4a1d5c148.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Dante^4s%20Inferno.pdf

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #103 on: April 19, 2010, 10:47:23 pm »
Hey, NanooK!
Something seems to have happened to your Skydrive share.
It says, "That item appears to be missing".....I dunno, I've already downloaded it & all is well with me.
Just trying to look out for the neighborhood, don't cha know......

Offline Slakkey

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #104 on: April 19, 2010, 11:05:11 pm »

Offline del cross

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #105 on: April 20, 2010, 09:26:18 am »
The auto URL software probably can't handle that caret "^" (nanook: if you surround it with the [url] [/url] tags it gives you what you're after).

Here's the link:

http://cid-ac7b92e4a1d5c148.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Dante^4s%20Inferno.pdf

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #106 on: April 20, 2010, 10:54:19 am »
sorry guys. Is it working now? Anyone else climbed Dante's?

Offline Caz

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #107 on: April 20, 2010, 02:29:59 pm »
yep
I do this for fun...

Offline alikb

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #108 on: April 23, 2010, 12:14:17 am »
was Dante's a worthy route?

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #109 on: April 23, 2010, 11:46:43 am »
Dante's is cool for being easy climbing and getting you on the Falls Wall. Not incredibly steep or classic aid climbing but a fun spot and you get to check out the first pitches of the Chiminey.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #110 on: April 23, 2010, 05:45:37 pm »
only one pitch of A3?

wish I had more time in the Autumn, twould be cool.


Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #111 on: April 23, 2010, 10:37:53 pm »
looks fun

where's that optional 7" piece for?  a bit heavy to carry 'just in case'  :)

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #112 on: April 25, 2010, 09:15:31 am »
Yo Gang,

Astroman. That's the free rack. Look forward to doing it as a wall and getting the aid rack dialed.

cheers
e

http://cid-ac7b92e4a1d5c148.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Astroman.pdf

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #113 on: April 25, 2010, 09:19:54 am »
Yo Dave,

Dante's is like Aquarian and many other walls in Yosemite that were done without big cams but having them can allow you to skip some serious grovel. (I'm currently climbing Great Slab Route and have used a #4 and #5 camalot a few times. The route was put up in '67 before harnesses!)

In other words. Most folks would be happy to have those big cams, but if you'd rather fit in the back of an ow for some pro it's there.

best
e

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #114 on: May 02, 2010, 06:24:34 pm »
cheers gang, another that is a little wet right now

Wheel of Torture on the Falls Wall:

http://cid-ac7b92e4a1d5c148.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Wheel%20of%20Torture.pdf

Offline Caz

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #115 on: May 02, 2010, 08:38:31 pm »
Thanks E!
I do this for fun...

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #116 on: May 02, 2010, 09:41:55 pm »
damn...that looks serious.... A4 Hooking (Bad Fall)

Does that mean, like, you will die or you will break your ankles?  Those routes on that wall are amazing.  Heard Kohl has 17 FAs up there...what a beast...ain't no charity routes!

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #117 on: May 05, 2010, 08:29:05 am »
Yo Dave

Man, aid ratings are so tough. Better to compare to other routes but even that can be tricky.

WOT isn't that bad--if the last hooking section on the Hook or Book is 40' that hooking with a bad fall on WOT is maybe 15'.


I'll change it to just A4.

(a note about corrections: thank you to everyone who keeps posting and emailing me corrections to wall topos--keep it comin. If you don't see the changes right away in the downloadable version here know that they have been noted/made to the master version. With the website stuff starting to come together I'd rather focus on just getting a good home for these topos than continually uploading updated topos).

cheers
e

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #118 on: May 06, 2010, 12:38:31 am »
Hey Nanook-

What do you think the situation with Bolts/rivets up on the Falls wall is?  Seems like they get pounded with water for ....8, 9, 10? months out of the year?  Been curious how one might address that up there...

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« Reply #119 on: May 09, 2010, 09:45:04 am »
Yo Gang,

Here's GSR/Saddam Hussein:

http://cid-ac7b92e4a1d5c148.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Great%20Slab%20Route-Saddam%20Hussein.pdf

Dave: I don't think the bolts on the Falls Wall are particularly worse off than other bolts in Yosemite, except for World or Pain, the Waterfall route, and that other route that Klaus put up that goes right up the waterfall area. The Falls Wall routes are generally a couple decades newer than many other walls in the Valley.