Author Topic: Column Wall routes, left to right  (Read 2529 times)

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Offline Erik Sloan

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Column Wall routes, left to right
« on: February 07, 2010, 11:53:46 am »
Am I missing any?

South Central
Southern Man
South Face
Skull Queen
Re-Animator
Prow
Crosstown Traffic
Ten Days After
Electric Ladyland
Endangered Species
Afroman
Astroman
Horni-Johnson
Mideast Crisis
Mideast Crisis
Saddam Hussein
Great Slab Route
Tora Bora
Bad Wall
History of the Future

That is one bitchin rock!
« Last Edit: February 07, 2010, 08:58:57 pm by nanook »

skully

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2010, 12:14:49 pm »
Skull Queen, between South Face & the Reanimator.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2010, 03:40:19 pm »
Nanook, are you including Arches area in "column" area?

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2010, 08:58:23 pm »
Thanks. Nah, I"m gonna call the Arches area separate.


Offline Strider

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2010, 05:26:06 pm »
Depends... 

Since you have Astroman in the list I am guessing you are including free routes?  If so then there is also:
From the green Roper guide:
Piton Traverse
Direct Route
Obscurity Traverse
From the yellow Meyer guide:
The Odyssey

For aid climbs:
From the green Roper guide:
Bridwell-Faint Route (Probably it has been renamed, Reid's guide lists South Central as FA Bridwell/Faint)
East Face (I know this is Astroman but it would be cool to see an aid topo for it)


Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2010, 05:42:20 pm »
(Astroman but it would be cool to see an aid topo for it)

werd, let's reclaim the route back to Aid status!!!  (clean gear of course)

big cams thru the slot,... on the outside!!!

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2010, 05:30:35 pm »
Thanks Strider. Are those all wall routes? The direct route is considered a Grade IV I think.

I'm with ya Munge. It blew me away when Fro talked about a team doing Astroman wall style in '94, the year they put up Afroman, cause that was my first season in the valley. And no one told me you could do that thing with aiders. I"m not saying it should be recommended as a beginning aid climb, but folks like me that don't climb 5.11 it would be fun to sleep on one of those ledges, squeeze in that slot.

cheers
e

Offline Strider

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2010, 12:35:37 am »
Depends on your definition of a "wall route".  All of the routes I listed go from the bottom of the Column to the top.  I would assume all the free routes (Astroman, Direct, Odyssey, etc) are grade IV or less since a normal free climbing team (who can climb that grade) should be able to do them in a day. 

But if they were done with aid techniques, they would probably take more than a day...

-n

Offline Jack Herer

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2010, 12:37:17 am »
Your list is still missing the mystery euro route. I posted in the thread on supertopo but it didnt seem to generate a response there.

Offline Jack Herer

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2010, 02:14:14 pm »
still no one seems to care that some euro did put up a new route? what gives? no one knows anything? no one cares? i mean the book will be incomplete with out it?

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2010, 02:44:52 pm »
Jack bump it again, maybe it just needs fresh eyes.


Strider, does the odyssey go without aid?  Begs the question of whether an all free route is then no longer a 'big wall' route (i think mentioned elsewhere too)

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #11 on: February 25, 2010, 03:20:04 pm »
Does anyone have a good image of the column?  high or decently high resolution, something showing the whole formation.  PM me and maybe I could get you to Email me.  I wanted to play with some software....

skully

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #12 on: February 25, 2010, 07:00:19 pm »
Nanook's big shot with all his colored lines on it is pretty good.....Nanook? Anyone?
Bueller?

Offline Mike.

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #13 on: February 25, 2010, 08:57:24 pm »
Nothing very high res or close up here.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #14 on: February 25, 2010, 11:20:17 pm »
http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/yose_deepzoom/index.html

just take screen shots and then auto stitch them together with something like Photoshop elements.

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #15 on: February 26, 2010, 08:23:22 am »
Man, that picture with the lines is pretty blurry/low res.

I'll send it if you want but seems like you could find something better.

skully

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #16 on: February 26, 2010, 09:16:58 am »
Well, it WAS covered with lines, eh?
« Last Edit: February 26, 2010, 09:21:19 am by skully »

Offline Jack Herer

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #17 on: February 27, 2010, 12:40:52 pm »
bump for mystery euro route on the column... comeon i cant be the only one that cares

Offline Strider

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Re: Column Wall routes, left to right
« Reply #18 on: February 27, 2010, 01:38:44 pm »
Munge - According to the Yellow Meyers Guide The Odyssey is rated V 5.11, with two 5.11 cruxes.  One 5.11 think crux down low and another 5.11 OW crux up high.  Appears to be all free.

After doing a 5.11 OW last week in Josh I can say there is no way in hell I would ever try that thing.  My palms are sweating and the scabs on the back of my left shoulder are itching already...

And as you pointed out, IMO, the definition of bigwall and Grade V, VI gets pretty murky once the wall has been freeclimbed. 

-n