Author Topic: Hello BW People  (Read 2878 times)

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Offline BEMHO

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Hello BW People
« on: February 26, 2010, 01:44:19 pm »
I just wanted to say hello and I look forward to being a member of the BW page.

I have done some walls but I am just getting back into shape to do some more.  I'm looking at doing the Albatross this year with either the Magic Mushroom start or perhaps the Dorn D start.  If anyone has any helpful beta on Dorn and Albatross I would appreciate it very much. I would perfer to do the first pitches of Albatross and not do the Shroom to cast away.  If you know how much gardening is needed please help with that info. Looking forward to playing with the big rock again.

If any of you need any Baffin 411 I have been and seen some things that might interest those going, and I am happy to give you any information on Scott Inlet or Gibbs/ Scott Fjord.  There are some monster walls back around Sillem Island.  Ice climbers there is a huge WI climb in the Scott Inlet ( 1500) ft would be my guess across from Ships Prow, and the wall to the left is about a mile long and 3000 feet tall.  The base jumping in this area is easy access and well huge to say the least.

 

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2010, 02:22:44 pm »
Baffin beta also welcome even if I can't get up that way (yet).


sorry all for any delays in getting registrations approved. I had been doing them in batches with with the spambots being a problem lately. hopefully we have enough filters on the reg process now.

Offline Mike.

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2010, 02:28:42 pm »
Right on, Bemho. Glad you found us.

Wish I could cast light on your objectives, so good luck there. Could babble about the Mushroom.

Were you part of Oxx's first descent frenzy on Baffin?

Welcome and cheers!
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline GoMZ

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2010, 07:35:20 pm »
Hi and welcome Bemho,

I don't have any beta but be sure to check out this fantastic TR from the Albatross http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?topic=418.0
« Last Edit: February 26, 2010, 07:42:42 pm by GoMZ »

skully

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2010, 09:30:07 pm »
Howdy....GoMZ is on it. That's gotta be the best TR of the Albatross ever.
yo's pretty upbeat & funny, too.

Hope you'll hang & share your chosen affliction with us, like minded folk.
Howdy x 3.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2010, 10:21:34 pm »
buck yeah!

welcome aboard!  First order of business is to post some good photos for us to look at. (I think I have seen all other photos currently on the internet and need to get psyched for this coming week).




Offline BEMHO

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2010, 10:38:45 am »
Thanks for the welcome.  I will try to get to the desk and post up some pics.  Most of my pics are on slide film as the digital world did not exist when I was doing most of my walls.  I do not have much access to a scanner but I will post a few.  I never took a lot of pics on the walls as my partners and I always seemed to be climbing and not taking pictures, but i have a few. 

I appreciate the TR on Albatross and I am looking forward to that route as it is less traveled and I have always wanted to see the Canoe up close.  I can remeber the rope flailling in the wind for years and then it was gone.  I was trying to get my friends to do the Dawn but they did the NA last year and wanted to do something on the left side this year. 

Thanks again and i look forward to climbing talk with you all.

I forgot to answer some questions above:

I don't know when Will Oxx was there but if it was before 99 then I was there after Will.
Baffin is well the place to be if you can handle the cold, and can handle the remoteness of the place. 
I just looked around and saw the base potential and easy access and it was a no brainer to see that this is the way back to camp for those that base.  I don't base as the doctor told me if I break that ankle again he will fuse it.  I opt for the limited motion I do have left in that ankle. 

« Last Edit: March 01, 2010, 11:00:02 am by BEMHO »

Offline Mike.

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2010, 11:42:12 am »
Hey, bemho,

I got Will's vid in about '01, so thinking he was there in years just before that. Prolly near the time you were there. I need to pull that VHS out and have it DVD'ed.

Slide film? That's a good sign...back before too much comfortizing of the "sport." Looking fwd to seeing your scans...with lots of LAs, KBs, Leeper hangers and Rawl Drives!

Power to ya for dusting off the gear and revving up again. Extra good getting a little off the beaten path. Cheers...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline BEMHO

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2010, 05:21:23 pm »
Mike what about the dabloon?

I started climbing in 87 and was thrown into the fire right away.  the first day i went with some guys who had been ASU students and got introduced to climbing a couple of years before.  They took me to Donner and said were climbing this climb.  I was ok looks fun.  Half way up the guy complaining it is cold and he doesn't want to do the climb.  I was like that is lame, and he said then you do it and i did.  5.10 corner bolted with no falls. 

I loved it and have been in love with it ever since.  My second experience was with this guy who climbed the water fall route with Sylvester.  He taught me trad and trad only and then he taught me walls and the first wall I tried was Magic Mushroom.  I led the first three or four pitches and had never nailed or anything like that.  Scared the shit out of me on the first A3 pitch.  We bailed and went and did the Leaning Tower.  I had a great time and never looked back. 

Will was probably there the year after I was there.  I don't believe the BASE guys had really understood how awesome and easy the access to huge base jumps were till the pictures started filtering out.  Place is sick for climbing and base, and if you ever go let me know as I have some great info on the area we climbed. I could have done as much base as I wanted if I based.  You could easily do 3 to 4 bases jumps a day if you wanted where we were.

Offline Mike.

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2010, 06:53:23 pm »
bem,

Dubloon for good luck, heh.

Whacky, man. I was at ASU from 85-88 and hitting the crags all around Phoenix/AZ. We were trying to get our wings then, too, and finally busted out the tower and Nose in 86-87. Mushroom pitches must have been a trip then, and that's cool you got initialized like that. You still couldn't have done it without some innate ability, tho, kudos. My story was a bit less glorious = |

Thanks for the psyche on Baffin. I honestly have little interest in hammering out a mission up there. I can imagine it's an incredible place, rife with plundering opportunity. I'm a softie climbing by the road...

Cheers, BH.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline BEMHO

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2010, 11:14:38 am »
Mike

The best part of Baffin is you can not get closer to the road.  You set up pretty much next to your objective and then just string rope.  One of the closest approaches you can have. 

I read about all these routes being beat out and think wow some of the routes i did hardly seemed used let alone beat out. 

Ill try and post some Baffin shots but I am not sure how to do that on this site.  You know how to post photo's?

skully

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2010, 12:55:35 pm »
You can post them to the gallery here, & then just link 'em or somethin'.
Munge?

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2010, 04:02:34 pm »
dedicate thread on posting images...

http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?topic=33.0


Offline BEMHO

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #13 on: March 09, 2010, 06:51:34 pm »
Well I was trying to put up a sample of some of the stuff in Baffin but I am not doing well, and am probably a computer idiot, but my scan is a tif image and I can't seem to get it to go to the gallery.

HELP!  I'm using a mac but i am normally a pc user so any help would be great.

Thanks

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #14 on: March 09, 2010, 10:09:07 pm »
You probably want to convert your pics to jpeg before uploading - you may be able to tell your scanner to output JPG instead if TIFF, but if not you can convert after the fact. 

I'm told by my neighborhood mac expert that Preview (the default OSX TIFF viewer) has a 'save as JPEG' option.  And apparently the fact that lots of stuff defaults to TIFF annoys her too  :)

hth - I'm looking forward to seeing your pics

dave


Offline BEMHO

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #15 on: March 10, 2010, 05:40:36 pm »
OK I got it figured out somewhat.  The picture is in the gallery now and I know WTF that is the worst picture ever and I agree.  I am no Ansel Adams and i barely knew how to use a camera let a lone one you had to focus yourself.

This is a cliff/mountain across from our camp, maybe 6 to 8 miles away across the fjord.  Just thought it was beautiful looked good for a base and or ski base.  Now that i know how to upload i will get on the scanner and try to get some more of Baffin up.  Some day i will give you a TR.  It was a mixed bag of bizzare to sublime to amazing. 

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #16 on: March 10, 2010, 08:00:50 pm »
just tried to embed it, too big.

link here...

http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/gallery/uploaded_files/Aaron004.jpg


Offline Mike.

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #17 on: March 10, 2010, 09:21:12 pm »
Awesome shot, BEM. After looking at that big wall approach, I can imagine that doing it top-down might have some appeal. That is one ominous feature. From what little I know about Baffin, there a scores of those prizes around.

More photos would be a treat, but I know it takes time. The quality is great...authentic. I still like seeing the edge of the slide mount, hehe.

Thanks for the look!
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline BEMHO

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #18 on: March 12, 2010, 10:20:09 am »
Thanks for the help.  I thought it was 1mb when i loaded it. Munge what size do they need to be to embed them? 

I like that photo and it is just a small sample of what is in the Scott Inlet/Gibbs/Clark fjord.  In fact that picture has some really cool stuff like the huge dihedral in the middle of the photo, and some other really cool features but if you were to go to that area it would not be anything you would set up camp for.  The walls around there are way more impressive and this shot is just a small sample of what is in the area.  Most of the bigger walls are in the inlet on the north side of the Scott inlet and in the back of Sillem.  I remeber a wall in the back that was at least 4000 ft and it may have been bigger.  To get a perspective is hard as there is nothing to really judge size by and the topos are not really very good. 

I will try to get a scanner going and post up some more shots.  Does anyone know of a scanner that is affordable and still produces a good reproduction, and reporoduces in a timely manner.

Thanks for all the help and I see if my father inlaw has any time to scan a few more for me until I get a scanner.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Hello BW People
« Reply #19 on: March 12, 2010, 12:05:01 pm »
quick reply before going back to work...

big images are good for getting detail, just not embedding.  I'm not sure what a good embed size is.  Some of the guys want small, others just want something optimized for general use. If you right click and copy other images, you can save a local copy and check properties on the image to get the size of the image. Vertically aligned images rather than landscape images often can be bigger since they don't go off the right side of the screen.

If you use Photobucket, Flickr, etc. they provide multiple sizes for embedding as part of their service, which is nice.

I use a Canon Lide 35 scanner. Older, but the Canon seems to be pretty durable. (doesn't do slides though).