Author Topic: Personal 2 to 1  (Read 1499 times)

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Offline mhudon

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Personal 2 to 1
« on: March 14, 2010, 02:47:08 pm »
I would bet that everyone pretty much understands 2:1 hauling these days. If not, you should. To fully appreciate this post though, you ought to understand how pulleys work and how to achieve a simple 2 to 1 hauling advantage.

This little thing I figured out I call a "Personal 2:1" since you it's light, versatile and you can carry it with you in any climbing situation.

The Personal 2 to 1 kit:
2 Revolver biners
1 Standard Fifi hook with a light cord loop tied to its top
7 or 8 feet of 5.5mil Spectra cord (spectra doesn't stretch)



First of all, we've all been there, but at some point on a wall you're going to need to lift something that is heavy and in an awkward position or you're going to need to lift something heavy with one hand so that you have your other hand free to complete a task (unclipping your already set up ledge so that you can attach your fly), or that you've simply hosed yourself somehow (hauled the bags tight to the pulleys, loosened your docking cord before unclipping your safety knot on the haul bag, etc).

On my last Shield attempt (two and counting), I was always loosening the docking cord and forgetting to unclip the safety before hand. There was no way I could lift the haul bags. I ended up cutting the safety cord TWICE!

So, let's say you're hosed, you've hauled the bags tight to the pulleys and rope grab. You have the whole deal on a 2:1 system but when you apply weight to the system you end up too far away to reach anything. When you're closer to the system, the knot you've tied into it with jams up against a pulley or biner.

Personal 2:1 to the rescue!

Below is a photo of your hauling setup, Let's say you can't pull anymore slack out of the system but you need to unload the rope grab to lower the bags onto their docking cords.



Below you see the Personal 2 to 1 in place.



The Fifi hook can be placed anywhere convenient, on a biner, on a sling, on a bolt hanger, etc.
The Spectra cord goes down to a Revolver biner (pulley end up) clipped onto the load somewhere, somewhere below your hosement.
The Spectra cord goes back up to another Revolver biner (pulley end down) attached to something solid yet convenient.

Get it? SEE IT? YOU'VE JUST CREATED A 2 TO 1 MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE ON THE FLY!

Tie a clove hitch into the Spectra, clip an aider or sling into it, step into the sling and Voila! The Bag Rises!
Now you can just stand there, with both hands free, take apart the haul system, attach your fly to the anchor and portaledege, get the weight off something so you can do something else and then simply step off the sling to lower the weight back down onto it's anchor.
If you've further hosed yourself and the clove hitch jams up against the top Revolver, simply grab the little cord on top of the Fifi and after checking that everything is backed up and safetied, jerk the fifi off it's anchor with one quick pull. Things will pop but things should be okay if you've made sure everything is tied in and safetied.

On a wall I'd keep this rig clipped right to the top of the haul bag.

Slick, eh?

BTW I weigh only 125 pounds and I have been using 125 pounds of free weights to test the system.

With a little bit of thinking and one more Revolver biner you can easily make this into a 3:1 advantage. The Revolver biner is terribly inefficient as a pulley but they are loads better that a regular biner. If you had a couple of little pulleys hanging around this method would really kick butt!
« Last Edit: March 14, 2010, 04:20:41 pm by mhudon »

Offline johnmac

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Re: Personal 2 to 1
« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2010, 07:32:57 pm »
Thanks for sharing. That's a pretty cool idea.

I've done something similar several times when the haul bag/lead line has become a snag fest. Generally I improvise at the time and do a mini haul. Rather than using a docking cord, give an adjustable daisy a try. It's faster and provides more options.

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Personal 2 to 1
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2010, 11:14:12 pm »
An inverted grigri works wonders.

As does the yates adj daisy, although a snazzy pocket 2:1 does look like less work for the soloist.


Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Personal 2 to 1
« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2010, 11:47:37 pm »
My tremendously huge biceps won't help me out of all haul-bag lifting scenarios?


I really like that idea.  It seems like you could apply that concept with just a normal piece of cordage or even a tail of rope, instead of the fifi hook.  That way you could get yourself out of a sticky situation without even having the special 'pocket 2:1' set up on hand.  Am I correct?

Offline Mike.

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Re: Personal 2 to 1
« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2010, 08:20:39 am »
Cool. Basically the "Z-pulley" set up from an ancient Coonyard catalog. If I weighed 125 I'd have something like that in the kit...especially if I was forgetful ; }
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Personal 2 to 1
« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2010, 09:15:20 am »
The real advantage is to have the concept down so that you can jury rig one on the fly. It could probably be done fairly well with a sling and two regular biners.

hoipolloi, yes! Let your mind wander and be creative!
« Last Edit: March 15, 2010, 09:18:09 am by mhudon »

Offline Caz

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Re: Personal 2 to 1
« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2010, 09:02:44 pm »
Thanks Mark,

looks like a handy thing to have on a solo!


Zac
I do this for fun...