Author Topic: Lurking Fear TR  (Read 1919 times)

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Offline BEMHO

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Lurking Fear TR
« on: March 18, 2010, 10:57:30 am »
After reading Munges TR I had to write one as Lurking Fear was a wall that almost killed me.

My partner and I had done several walls together and we were both employed and not getting much time on the big rock. 
I was running my business and he was running someone else's business doing high tech audio video systems in big custom homes.

We had both reached the tipping point and we both needed to do a wall.  We only had the weekend off so we decided that Lurking Fear was a wall we could get done and get home by Monday morning.

We set out on Friday at around 5pm and got to the valley around 10pm.  We pulled the loads out of the car and marched up to the LF.  We crashed and got up early and set out to get it done. When we wake up we see these guys at pitch 7. When we get to the base there is a brand new hammer and pair of sunglasses in the bushes and I immediately think this is their gear and if they are dropping stuff we had better pay attention to what is going on above as well as move fast. 

We are under the clock gun and we are sending pitches fast.  We have no portaledge and basically enough gear to stay warm and eat well.  We are really ticking off the pitches as the day goes by.   It was really surreal as both of us hardly speak at the belays we just hand over the gear and the next guy is off and leading.  We would just snack as we belayed each other.  When we get to the 7th pitch the guys ahead of us are maybe three pitches ahead of us and they are on the traverse to the big ledge.  It is now getting dark and we are still firing them off.  We have got to get to the pitch before the traverse so we can rap down to the poor ledge for two bivi.  This is still maybe 2 or 3 pitches to go. We are now slowing down as we have just been at warp speed for hours and were tired for sure.  We fire off the last few to make it to the poor bivi ledge at around 2 am.  Long day for sure.

Next morning after not really sleeping much as that is a poor bivi we get the traverse done as the party ahead of us is just getting up.  We pass them and top out about mid day.  The crap that was in the cave on Thanksgiving ledge was overwhelming. Clean up after yourselves climbers.

We summit and get to the raps by 1:30 or so.  We get down and head straight for Curry for a pizza and we are spent.  The food is gone in 60 seconds and we are back to the car for a 5 hours drive back to Tahoe.  It is now perhaps 5 in the afternoon and we hit the road.  We are both so tired that it takes us 9 hours to get to Tahoe.  We would swap drivers and make it maybe 15 miles pull over take a nap and then drive again.  I give my partner the wheel in Minden and say take us home safely.  I fall asleep just outside Minden and forget to put my belt on.  The next thing I know we have hit the bridge crossing the Carson River when I open my eyes we are on two wheels and about to roll the truck.  My friend I do not know how manages to get it back on all 4 wheels and we pull over.  So does every car behind us to see if we are ok. So every time I pass that bridge i get this Fear Lurking up my spine that I am very lucky to be alive and that we were fortunate enough to hit the barrier of the bridge and not go into the river, and or roll the truck and be killed.

Lurking Fear is a great route.  The variety of climbing and technique required make this a great wall for moving up on harder routes.

 

Offline Mike.

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Re: Lurking Fear TR
« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2010, 12:18:25 pm »
As usual...driving is more dangerous than walling. Especially after a run like that. Been there too many times and trying to be better. Rumble strips work.

Thanks for the reminder to be careful. And the nice yarn. Good job, man.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Lurking Fear TR
« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2010, 12:32:49 pm »
thx for postin up. Glad that the TRs keep sparking other folks to post up their stories.

that whole sleep driving thing is one I'm working on too.  good reminder to stay alive.

Offline BEMHO

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Re: Lurking Fear TR
« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2010, 03:36:08 pm »
Yeah men just stay safe.  The walls are hard enough on you, but man every time I see that bridge now I know I was almost road kill right there.
Munge your report was great.  That is the perfect first El Cap big wall I feel.  It has every type  of climbing on it.  Great easy hooking and great C1 all over it.  I thought the hardest part was the 4th class to the top.  There is some major fall potential getting off that boulder and on to the slabs of no pro.  We roped up after I looked at it, and we were very tired so a simple mistake could have been a major tragedy. 

BE safe have fun and I look forward to the valley in June.  It has been way to long since I set foot to a big rock camping trip. 

I love this site!  It is positive and the people are into climbing.  Keep it real and enjoy your spring it appears to be here for real.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Lurking Fear TR
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2010, 04:12:16 pm »
thx mang.



don't make us post political drivel!!!  ;)



Offline mhudon

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Re: Lurking Fear TR
« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2010, 05:31:37 pm »

don't make us post political drivel!!!  ;)


Yeah, really... ST is getting to be a bit much these days.

Offline scottydo

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Re: Lurking Fear TR
« Reply #6 on: March 25, 2010, 12:24:46 am »
Rock on BEMHO! Sometimes the dangerous stuff is off the rock. Glad you guys are ok.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Lurking Fear TR
« Reply #7 on: March 25, 2010, 11:57:09 am »
Thanks for sharing... Yes, gotta watch those drives home.

My wife and I joke all the time that the most dangerous aspect of my big wallin is the last half mile to our house as I pass two roundabouts that seem to have crashes on a weekly basis!