Author Topic: Wall Routes in the Cathedrals  (Read 1398 times)

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Offline hoots

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Wall Routes in the Cathedrals
« on: March 29, 2010, 09:14:14 pm »
Has anybody here done a route up on Higher Spire or Rock?  I've been looking at Learning to Crawl, East Face Route, Higher Aspirations.  Gotta be a lot of old 1/4ers up there.  First or second hand info welcome.  Side note, anybody with weekdays free want to climb something in the ditch starting April 12?

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Wall Routes in the Cathedrals
« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2010, 09:56:01 pm »
Hey Hoots,  Nice topic!  I am good friends with Bosque, and we have talked alot about his more obscure routes. 

Higher Aspirations is said to be a VERY nice wall, I know that they usually used Stars and Z-macs and the occasional bolt in the ladders.  Most belays on HA are gear/pins with the occasional bolt.  I believe it has been done a handfull of times, Probably more anchor bolts (or improved belay's).

Learning to crawl - crux is low and more bustin free on this one,  I think he did this one with FRitz Fox, and thus the name!  Steve said there was some burly wide stuff high up.  Unknown # of ascents, but he said the quality was good.  Belays are the same, usually a bolt+pins or gear maybe a rivet or so for the ledges you know!

Both should get some rehab, the rivet ladder on HA probably just needs the occasional bolt replacement.  Modern day ratings on both routes is questionable due to lack of ascents but some thin on both.  Beaks would probably be the best thing up there.

Hope this helps, I have always wanted to hit HA but keep it on the back burner. 

Mucci

Offline lambone

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Re: Wall Routes in the Cathedrals
« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2010, 10:08:34 pm »
The north face of Higher Cathedral Rock is pretty wild looking from the Middle gully descent.

Offline Mike.

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Re: Wall Routes in the Cathedrals
« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2010, 07:50:26 am »
Ditto Lambone.

I don't know anyone who's done any you mention, hoots. I know one cat who is looking with intention at NFHCR. Eerie location...looks like it might be a bit loose like much of the N. facing stuff is. I wish I could entertain a foray. Looks like good fun & adventure, not far from the road. Hope you get after it or something...
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Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Wall Routes in the Cathedrals
« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2010, 12:52:54 am »
Coiler repeated HR in '99; thought it was the second ascent. He gave me his notes and it looks like the original ratings were pretty right on. I'll dig up my newer topo.

Offline kristoffer

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Re: Wall Routes in the Cathedrals
« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2010, 09:18:54 am »
Ditto Lambone.

I don't know anyone who's done any you mention, hoots. I know one cat who is looking with intention at NFHCR. Eerie location...looks like it might be a bit loose like much of the N. facing stuff is. I wish I could entertain a foray. Looks like good fun & adventure, not far from the road. Hope you get after it or something...

Mike, we can make that wish for a foray on the big spooky mean green come true. thats all you needed to say, no way out of this one now.. haha full pitches of expando and looseness... looks like a good place so test if the theory of those pins i made actually plans out.
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Offline Mike.

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Re: Wall Routes in the Cathedrals
« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2010, 09:36:48 am »
No hicath-pics monitoring...sounds great. You get off the boat, we'll get off the bikes. Glad ya got yer ears on, Zeph. Keep sane 'til then...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline kristoffer

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Re: Wall Routes in the Cathedrals
« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2010, 03:37:33 pm »
i got off the boat last friday, im up in Wa for a little wile then its game time! i will give you a call when i get back in town.
"I am plagued by a mindless nonchalance and petrified zen"