Author Topic: The Chronicles of Ten Days After  (Read 2836 times)

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Offline waulrat

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The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« on: June 21, 2010, 06:10:20 pm »
Sometime in the first few days of June Zac called me up and said he had some days off coming up, the following week to be exact. After a long spring of no climbing for me I was obligated by my own conscience and desire. I pulled a few strings at work and had the days off work in to no time at all. There... all those feelings of being over worked quickly turned to feelings of guilt for bailing out on a few gigs to go suffer on the wall with Zac. Let it be known, those feelings of guilt were quickly remedied when I realized, this is only a job putting out lights and sound for winery parties... they will survive with out me. Even if they don't, I don't care... I'm going climbing!
Over the next few days we figured out the details hatched a plan to get to the top in style and good time. The dates we had set were June 11th to the 15th. We?d fix to top of two the first day via the Prow start, blast the next day and spend 2 nights on the wall. The 11th couldn?t come quick enough, in fact Zac and I both decided we would drive to the Valley on the 10th. Seeing as how I wasn?t off work until 930pm it was a late night driving from Sonoma County. Zac Drove in during the day and was sending me text messages telling me he was at the base while I was stuck at work! (thanks Zac) The next morning we met at the caf?, packed the pigs and headed to the base.
 




We were soon climbing the first and second pitch headed to the rivet traverse to get us on TDA proper. By the time Zac was fixed at the top of the second we both realized there was plenty of time to hightail it to the pizza deck for some last minute comforts, COLD BEER and PIZZA! It was really good! The walk back to the base was somewhat slow because of the self induced pizza comma.
The next morning came quick, we were soon at the top of 2 with the pigs ready to stay on the wall.
(Picture)
The 3rd pitch was a sweet C1 splitter. I used 2 link cams on my aid ladders and was off and running, well climbing rather, plugging in gear every now and again.







Zac took the next pitch which was the first A2 pitch. He cruised it with style, placed a few arrows and it was back to thin clean aid. We decided to set up the ledge before the traversing pitch. We had sweet little spot in the dihedral that was pretty well protected from the wind.


 
The traversing pitch was intimidating on paper but was actually pretty mellow. Although half way through the pitch Zac informed me I had left the haul line at the belay, so after a little bit of?down climbing? no, reverse traversing Zac was able to lasso me. About that time I could see a large crowd of people gathering on the bike path wearing bright colors. I figured it was my Grandparents, Dad, and Brother. After a quick phone call at the belay my thoughts were confirmed. They had drove in from the G-parents house in Oakhurst to check out the whole process of walling. They said it looked slow and tedious. I thought, that?s funny cause I felt like Zac and I were putting the pitches below us in good time. I guess the wall has a way of slowing down time when there is nothing to do but climb.



Zac was up again on the sharp end for the second A2 section. The expando! How would you explain that pitch Zac? I could hear an arrow move while he was on it. So I?m guessing it was at least a little bit spicy.





That next pitch that takes the route to Tapir Terrace and rejoins the Prow has terrible rope drag! That pitch was frustrating to me to say the least! I did take a 6ft. daisy fall trying to reach the 3 three bolts going to Tapir. I was on a hook trying to gain that little ledge when it slipped off and I fell. There is a fixed piton there that I found afterward. It was pretty well buried in some brush.




 
We got to Tapir Terrace with plenty of day light left to set up the ledge and enjoy some beers with the guys on the Prow. We sat there for about 2 minutes before we decided we should keep climbing to prevent the cluster that would be sure to slow us all down the next morning. So we decided to go another two pitches. We arrived atop the ?Haulbag Eater? pitch at midnight and were ledged up by 2am. That was a long day of climbing.

Awe yes? 2 pitches from the top! We stayed in the ledge a little later the next morning. We started climbing about 9am, soon after the helicopter started hovering around us. We thought they were doing training or something. We had no idea what they were doing. Turns out they were there trying to figure out how to rescue the party that was on the Prow. The lead climber had fallen that morning, climbing off of Tapir Terrace and broke his femur. The Yosar guys were soon hoisted to the top on a long line to set up a rappel to get down to them, and then rap all the way to the ground with both climbers.
I have spoke with both climbers since the climb. Turns out Evan (the lead climber) fell after blowing a cam and bouncing off the ledge just below him. I had blown that same exact placement the evening before but fell back onto my daisy? luckily. Makes me think I was a little too close to a broken femur myself. On the bright side, Evan is healing well and in good spirits.
(picture)
Anyway, the top out for Zac and I was still great! I guess knowing Evan and Matt were in good hands with Yosar it made it easier for us to just keep climbing.







Man these trip reports always start with great idea's and motivation, but as the day wears on I realize how slow I am with a computer.
Consider this a work in progress


« Last Edit: June 21, 2010, 06:20:49 pm by waulrat »
It's a tribal thing

skully

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #1 on: June 21, 2010, 06:24:52 pm »
WooHoo!!!!!

Dig it, yet again. That's The Stuff, man.
The Column is a cool neighborhood, IMHO. Right on, WRat.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2010, 06:49:54 pm »
really nice guys! 

I wonder what the optimal piece is off of Tapir these days then?  You got a 6' daisy, Ev got a lot more.

I can't recall what we used on that pitch many moons ago.  I'd be curious to hear folks' ideas on how to optimally protect that.


Offline waulrat

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2010, 08:31:22 pm »
I have regular yates daisy's, but the one fell one to (both times) was pretty much at my feet after top stepping.

I would say the best pro off the terrace is just bypassing the horizontal pocket to the left and just get high up in yours ladders and go for the next placement. Which I seem to remember as a red alien.
It's a tribal thing

Offline Mike.

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2010, 08:38:30 pm »
Awesome work, guys! Base bonus, headlamp time, spinal compression...all the icings that make the great cake.

What was yer daisy doing clipped while you were hopping up on that hook, dad? Carumba, help me tell these fools that all your internal organs will not explode just because you fell on something static. Lightweights...

Jeez, bummed to hear the brother busted his leg. Way to get through that section healthfully. Last time there I did the same thing...got through healthfully. I'm sure Ted and his bro in their double ledge were none too happy I was whipping around straight above them jerking on their anchor with my shortfix. He mentions it every time I see him. Not to digress...

Bask in the glory, doods. Nice ace on a good route.



PS: What, no first two pitches? Good choice, hehe...
« Last Edit: June 21, 2010, 08:43:55 pm by Mike. »
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Caz

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2010, 11:38:03 pm »
Thanks for posting the TR Kyle...

Yeah, it was a great route and had a great time!

I did place 6 pins on the route, on P4 I used a arrow and a small sawed off and on P7 I put in 2 arrows off the belay and 2 into the expando, which is where I learned what expando really is. When I got up to the expando, I looked at it and couldn't imagine that thing moving even a fraction of a inch. I pounded it with the palm of my hand then with my hammer to make sure it wasn't rotten or anything. when I deemed it all good I took out a LA and tapped it in. I moved up and started looking for my next placement trying inverted cam hooks and other stuff to try and avoid using another pin. After some frustration and a lot of sweat I plugged in another arrow. I had remembered a thing or two of what Kate told me about expando, so I clipped my adjustable to the arrow before hitting it. After my second swing the pin I was on rotated and started to slip. I quickly jumped ito my aiders on the higher pin. That got my heart racing!


Well I'm off to bed. I'll try and write up more later.


Zac
I do this for fun...

Offline waulrat

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2010, 12:32:29 am »
That daisy was clipped to a bolt actually... i thought i was gonna have to bust a free move out my aiders ad shuffle across to the bolts. The hook sounded less difficult... seeing as how that fix piton was hiding from me. Being only 150ish lbs the daisy fall wasn't bad at all. The hook bouncing off my head was the only indication I was falling. Being light has its benefits, except when I'm hauling...
It's a tribal thing

Offline Habanero

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2010, 08:42:45 am »
Nice send guys. TDA is a fun route.

Offline Mike.

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #8 on: June 22, 2010, 09:25:33 am »
Okay, waul, but why? That's a classic case where you'd leave an aider behind on the piece, but daisy?...

Proud send any way ya slice it. I say if you can get home without major injury, the outing was a success.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline waulrat

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #9 on: June 22, 2010, 02:27:13 pm »
Well to be completely honest Mike, I'm not really sure. As I remember I had just stepped out onto the hook, extended my daisy, glanced up to my next placement and the hook popped right before I unclipped from the bolt. Kind of odd cause I usually unclip then extend the daisy. This case was different for whatever reason.
It's a tribal thing

Offline Mike.

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #10 on: June 22, 2010, 07:39:25 pm »
Hey, brother, no thang, and I don't want to make myself any more of a pest than I already am for scrutinizing peoples' big wall glory. You fired the route in fine style, worked with other teams on the wall and got home safely. All manner of weirdness happens up there for which there may be no accounting.

Bravo on the send to both of you guys.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #11 on: June 23, 2010, 06:30:22 pm »
Sweet!

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #12 on: July 02, 2010, 09:30:51 am »
Nice boys-  I just saw this here on the BW!

Man what a cool looking route, and big smiles all the way up!

Way to step it up you two.....6 pins ain't bad.

How was that cool hooking I've heard about?

Nice send!

Mucci

Offline Caz

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #13 on: July 14, 2010, 08:37:39 pm »
Mucci, I only pulled out the hooks once. That was on P7 and it was right above a huge bolt. I think Kyle pulled out 1 hook also on TDA proper. Other than that we used a bunch of cam hooks. I could have used small cams and nuts on any of the cam hook moves. I know I did way more hooking on The Prow...


Zac
I do this for fun...

Offline Didder

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Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« Reply #14 on: August 07, 2010, 04:37:48 pm »
Love the cheese whiz!!! Fun TR.