Author Topic: Hand Care  (Read 2001 times)

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Offline Habanero

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Hand Care
« on: August 18, 2010, 12:53:57 pm »
On a wall my hands start in good shape but each day they deteriorate to the point of becoming part of the crux. The main problem is my fingernails seperate from the tip of my finger....kinda like bamboo shoved uner the nail. It becomes very painful and is a major distraction. I've tried everything from tape to being more deliberate in using my hands, tincture to keep tape secure, gloves (not full finger), etc...

I'm heading back up the stone and looking for ideas. My wife (an ER nurse) recommended that I use dermabond or crazy glue to glue the tip of the nail to the skin. I'm considering this option.

Any thoughts or advice?

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2010, 01:19:32 pm »
... The main problem is my fingernails seperate from the tip of my finger....kinda like bamboo shoved under the nail. ...

I've suffered from the same thing.  Since I started playing the cello a few years ago I've been religious about keeping my nails short, to the point of manually peeling them back a bit before trimming (tho not to the point of pain).   I probably cut them 3 times/week.   Since I've started doing this the wall-climbing-related nail peeling has been way less problematic.   A slightly less obsessive focus on keeping your nails as short as possible during wall season would probably do the job just as well  :)

--dave

Offline Mike.

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2010, 06:07:41 pm »
I've always had the best results when keeping my nails a bit longer than I like them for free climbing.

So there ya go: Keep em short. Or keep em long. : )


If I do get a separated nail I use 1/2" waterproof tape, split it lengthwise for 1/4" strips, run one piece over the fingertip back to the first knuckle, then wind some around that knuckle to hold the ends down. If it's J&J waterproof first aid tape it will stick pretty well. Clean the tips religiously with Wet Ones and put peroxide on any splits, gobis, etc. They can actually heal if you are diligent with that treatment and be careful.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2010, 08:24:15 pm »
Dermabond works wonderfully, but it is very expensive. I use nu skin that you can pick up at walgreens for about 5 bucks.

http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?topic=960.0


Offline cclarke

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2010, 09:33:45 pm »
I heard from a very experienced wallrat this Spring that full finger gloves were totally the way to go.  I will try this next time.  I have always used either no gloves or half gloves and suffered after a few days. 

Offline Didder

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2010, 10:52:52 pm »
For me short nails spell doom. Got to keep em'
long. I do like the super glue for sealing up cuts
around the cuticles, and pretty much anywhere for that matter
although I have found that it only works to hold down
the fingernails if you glue em' and tape em' and even
then it's still not a Gimmie especially if you've been knawing
at them at the last belay...

skully

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #6 on: August 18, 2010, 11:39:02 pm »
I save the gnawing for the Lead.....Long moments of dread with instants of triumph....then there's the NEXT one.
Repeat. Now do it again. Repeat.


Longnail kinda guy, unless I get a rip, and I will. Then I'll trim up as best I can.
Superglue is in the bagpouch, poised for deployment.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2010, 08:53:45 am »
If you want to go the full finger glove option, try the mad rock wall gloves. They are really great.

http://www.madrockclimbing.com/products/product.asp?_item=100032



Offline Habanero

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #8 on: August 19, 2010, 04:05:40 pm »
Thanks for the information. I'll give the full finger gloves a go and see how they work.

Offline Habanero

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #9 on: September 22, 2010, 04:36:58 pm »
Used full finger gloves (partner did too) for the first time on mescalito a couple weeks ago.

The verdict: I will wear full finger gloves on all future walls. Period!

I had madrock wall gloves and partner had petzl. Both pairs faded near the end - loose stiching, wear spots - but were still working when we topped out.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2010, 04:41:01 pm »
talk to us about dexterity?  pulling a pin off a biner?  placing a head?  holding a sapporo?

Offline Habanero

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Re: Hand Care
« Reply #11 on: September 22, 2010, 04:53:47 pm »
I had no issues racking/unracking gear, setting small brass, taking pictures/video, working offset cams into scars, working with pins/peckers, turning the volume up on the wall tunes, finding bat hooks or hook placments, setting rivet hangers, feeling around the haul bag for stuff sacks, and on and on. It was rather nice not discovering how warm the beer was until it hits your lips.

Although I never needed to take them off on lead, my madrocks were really easy to pull off and on. They included a nice sewn loop at the base that made clipping them in and pulling on really easy.

Full disclosure - I did drop some gear but that would have happened without the gloves.