Author Topic: Headed to the Ditch!!  (Read 4521 times)

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Offline Baltoro

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Headed to the Ditch!!
« on: September 03, 2010, 01:55:22 pm »
So I'll be arriving in Yosemite the evening of Friday October 8th. So happy to be back! I'm headed up to the Column to take another crack at Mideast Crisis.

The goal for the trip is to climb MC clean which seems like its within the realm of possibility. The route has seen a fair amount of traffic in the last few years and most reports seem to mention a pin here or there but it sounds like with a little creativity and patience it could go. We'll certainly have a few in the bag just in case. I've got to add that some of the other recent activity on the Column has further inspired me to try this clean.

So I know a few people on this site have been on the route and my question for you is if you were going to go back and try to do it clean what would you differently, aside from the obvious part about not hammering?

I'm adding Tomahawks to the rack in the hopes that some of those handplaced would get the job done. Ball-nuts as well.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance and maybe I'll see you down there.

Cheers!
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2010, 02:38:24 pm »
We're headed down on the ~11th for a second lap on Mideast Crisis for me, first for my partner.

My advice:

1.  Do the Planck's Constant roof, it is way more classic than the original P2&P3, and has no nailing (just big cams).  I've never been on the original P2&P3, but they have a reputation for being two of the least redeeming pitches on the route.

2.  P5 has a funky pin scar that Mike put an angle in, I was able to get a #3 ballnut to stick, but not confidently.

3.  Just above the #3 ballnut is marked C2+ or A1.  I placed two BD peckers there (medium and large), tapping them into place.  I'm not sure that Tomahawks will be big enough for those spots.  As best I could tell, the alternative was #00 RP's, or 2 lobe cam placements in rotten runnels to the left.  The beaks only need a bit of tapping to get them to stick, but I'd like to know how folks get through that section clean?

4.  P7 is the next spot I remember busting out the hammer.  The flair is awful, and I places some lost arrows, and eventually a pecker to get onto the midway ledge.  I took pictures from the walkoff to confirm my suspicion that the flair can by bypassed by staying in the main crack (it also leads to the same ledge).  We'll be trying that variant, as it has high hopes of bypassing both the hammering, as well as the awful flair.

5.  P12 has just a couple fixed angles and LA's that we clipped, we didn't waste any time figuring out if it could be done cleanly if those disappeared, but I suspect they are fairly critical.  A black alien was also critical on P12, but mostly useless elsewhere.

6.  Do the original finish, it is 5.6/C1 (probably only 5.7 free if the moss was all cleaned off), and not bad.  Mike's description of the Astroman finish was enough to motivate me to avoid it (fixed rotten heads, hooking, etc=Yuck).

my $0.02
« Last Edit: September 03, 2010, 04:46:19 pm by Garbonzo »

skully

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2010, 03:40:18 pm »
Wow....We must all think alike. I hope to arrive that same weekend.
Weird, huh?
Not bound for the Column, however. El Cap is on MY radar.
I don't even have a route decided yet! Might just see where the traffic lies, & go the other way.
Anyway, we'll see. Jeremy from Albq. will be coming in with Paul Gagner about then, too.
Apparently they have a plan, but I'm sworn to secrecy. Hey, maybe I'll wander over thataway before I blast off, see how it fares with thee on the Column.
If I DON'T see ya, have a good time, eh? And shoot at least twice as many pics as I'll be taking! ;-)

Offline Baltoro

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2010, 04:09:29 pm »
Thanks Skully and Garbonzo!
To my knowledge MC hasn't gone clean before so it's entirely possible that there is still some mandatory nailing. Sounds like we'll both see. Good luck to both you guys down there. have fun and be safe. Oh and don't get tazed. :)
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2010, 04:43:23 pm »
Don't taze me bro!!!

hahhaa

Offline passthepitonspete

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2010, 06:08:42 pm »
I'm arriving Sept 14 and staying til about Oct 24.  Would love to hook up with you wankers for a beer, eh?  You can reach me at my user name here at that warm place on the internet. 

Looks like the plan is Albatross followed by Aquarian.  Trying to make it 42 with any luck.

Good luck on your clean climbing attempts.  Be careful, though, if you're above a bad landing.  Making "C3" moves above a ledge, where you could break your leg or worse, seems pretty silly to me when you could instead nail and do it safely. 
Dr. Piton says, "There is always a Better Way!"

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2010, 06:52:02 pm »
Baltoro,

We just got off of Mideast Crisis, and managed to do it hammerless.  Key to this was doing Pitch 7 (the awful flair) by staying in the main crack that goes straight up.  It takes a 4.5" piece, and then mostly 0.75-#3 camalots, and my partners did a few free moves to finish it (could still be aided, but he's less of a wimp than folks like me).  Overall it was vastly less epic than the flair and was dispatched quickly.  He also reported seeing chalk on it, so we are by no means the first to do this variation.

Clean crux was Pitch 5, requiring a hand placed medium pecker, and a #1 ball nut.  We clipped 12 fixed pins and 12 lead bolts/rivets, and only a couple seemed mandatory:

P1:  No pins, clipped the anchor as pro on the way to the other anchor
P2 (Planck's Constant Roof): 2 pins at slab level are not needed for progress, but are handy pro.  Clipped 3 bolts, one was an intermediate anchor for working the free.
P3/4: Clipped the P3 anchor bolt on the way through tot he original route, and lowered off one knife blade (key piece, and rather rusty).
P5: No pins/bolts.  Hand placed medium pecker.
P6: Clipped one lead bolt halfway through pitch (scary sounding rock on this pitch)
P7: No pins, no bolts via the direct crack variation
P8: No pins, no bolts
P9/10: 2 lead pins were convenient but easily could be C1 aliens, cruxy loose start
P11: 1 pin (easily could be a bomber yellow alien), I did not clip a second busted 1" pin, and did not use a 5/8" one right afterwards that shifted down during testing.  4 lead bolts, and one rivet clipped.  The interim 2 bolt belay is 20' below the "real" belay, and is probably a better place to stop if bivying.
P12: 3 fixed pins, one we didn't clip, 2 lead bolts
P13 (original finish): no pins/bolts, even with free shoes I ended up traversing out of the crack with a blue alien as the crack runneled out (save a couple #1's, a #3, and a #4 for aiding the flakes out left, then free the last moves).

The route is in good shape, so have fun down there!

PS:  My black alien got stuck on P4, if it is still there I'd love to buy it back.

PPS:  A single set of #4-12 nuts is plenty (we didn't even take nuts on some pitches).  A few medium brass offsets were handy, but we placed no aluminum offsets, and no small brass.  Key clean gear was hand placed medium pecker, #1 and #3 ball nut, aliens down to a single black alien, and a single set of offset aliens (we used blue-black, green-blue, and yellow-green, we never placed the yellow-red).  Key extra gear for Planck's Constant Roof is 2 old school #5 camalots, 3x old school #4.5's (#5 C4, #5 Wild Country, or similar).  If nervous, take more #4.5's in preferance to the #5's, as they are the meat of what you need to traverse the roof.
« Last Edit: September 20, 2010, 11:33:42 am by Garbonzo »

skully

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #7 on: September 17, 2010, 07:34:59 pm »
Sweet!
I'm gettin' antsy. I sort gear a lot, though. Gear is pretty fun.
Three weeks?!?



 Man, I could leave right now. Chompin' at the bit, as it were.

Offline Slakkey

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2010, 09:43:23 am »
Nice Garbonzo,

Off to the ditch on Tues. the 21st. A little help with the Yosemite Facelift and lots of climbing time.

Skully, its only a couple of days away for me and I am Chompin at the bit :)

Offline Caz

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #9 on: September 19, 2010, 11:31:00 am »
Gonna try and head up on the 10th!!!
I do this for fun...

Offline waulrat

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #10 on: September 19, 2010, 12:44:36 pm »
Yo Caz! the 10th is a go for me!
It's a tribal thing

Offline mhudon

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #11 on: September 20, 2010, 09:05:44 am »
I'll be there from the 9th to the 23rd.

Offline Caz

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #12 on: September 24, 2010, 11:51:21 pm »
See you all at the bridge on the 10th...
I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #13 on: September 24, 2010, 11:59:44 pm »
Poised. Same dates as Mark.
Counting down, baby. So Stoked!

Offline Caz

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #14 on: September 25, 2010, 12:04:43 am »
Me and the rat are doin 10th to the 24th...

Hope to meet the 2 of you while I'm up there.
I do this for fun...

Offline waulrat

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #15 on: September 25, 2010, 12:54:48 am »
Is it the 10th yet?
It's a tribal thing

skully

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #16 on: September 26, 2010, 09:54:11 pm »
It's mayhem here, I tell ya.


Two weeks, and counting!

I'm workin' it. No Worries.


I just need 40 more tie offs & a couple,three #2 Tomahawks.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2010, 11:46:23 pm by skully »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #17 on: September 27, 2010, 03:32:43 pm »
Romper Stomper, Romper Room...


I see Bird Beaks

I see Copper Heads

I see gettin ready.




nice, keep the stoke!



ps- bonus points, er maybe negative points if you actually know what the heck I'm referencing in the above.

Offline Caz

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #18 on: September 27, 2010, 09:46:18 pm »
That's what my living room is gonna look like all next week...

My Tomahawks came in today! I went to Evolv this morning and picked up a new pair of shoes (I hope they work out for a wall!). Now just waiting on my fish wall bags, and have to do some cuttin' up of stuff for catch lines, docking tethers, and tie offs...


I am very Excite!

« Last Edit: September 27, 2010, 09:47:55 pm by Caz »
I do this for fun...

Offline mhudon

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #19 on: September 28, 2010, 08:51:19 am »
I'm all packed and ready to go!

Offline waulrat

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #20 on: September 28, 2010, 01:59:42 pm »
the boxes of wall goodies are starting to explode all over the garage, new gear came in yesterday, fish bags on their way, and I even have a day off work today!
its a good day
It's a tribal thing

Offline Baltoro

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #21 on: September 29, 2010, 10:47:41 am »
Nice work on MC clean! Glad sonebody got it done, though it honestly has me contemplating giving Tangerine Trip or Zodiac a go. Hmm...
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

skully

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #22 on: October 01, 2010, 06:21:41 pm »
No doubt. Very cool.
Hey, Caz, those Evolv's should do great, if they're anything like the ones I got from Mike. I soloed about twenty(short) pitches in them, was impressed with their stickiness, & best of all, they still look like new(ish) shoes. They'll be makin' the journey.
The stoke is reaching FEVER PITCH!!! 1 week. Arrrggh. 
Can you tell I'm pretty excited? Hope to see at least some of you monkeys there.  Woot!

Offline Caz

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #23 on: October 03, 2010, 02:16:29 pm »
This time next week I'll be humpin' loads!
I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #24 on: October 06, 2010, 07:10:35 pm »
Yowza.....C'mon, Friday! I'm as ready as I'll ever be.
Packed & ready(anxious) to go forth.    WooHoo!!!!!!! 
Only thing is I don't get any tunes. Ah, Hell, oh well. They're a bonus touch, anyway. If I keep telling myself that, I might eventually believe it, eh?
Yeah, probably not. Just the breaks of shoestring budgeting. Arrggh. 
« Last Edit: October 06, 2010, 10:38:55 pm by skully »

Offline Slakkey

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #25 on: October 06, 2010, 07:50:31 pm »
WooHoo Skully Rock On Bro Have Fun

Offline Caz

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #26 on: October 06, 2010, 08:28:21 pm »
93 1/2 hours and I'll be on the road!!!
I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #27 on: October 08, 2010, 04:40:29 pm »
Here I go! Leaving now.
See Ya!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #28 on: October 08, 2010, 05:17:18 pm »
They closed Yosemite!

hahaha, just kidding. go man go!  blue skies in the bay area. you're set.


I head to Denver on Sunday.  Going to squeeze water from pebbles. Get strong in the rareified air.


Offline Caz

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Re: Headed to the Ditch!!
« Reply #29 on: October 08, 2010, 06:04:11 pm »
Nice!

maybe I'll see you up there!

I'd be leaving tonight or tomorrow, but I just picked up work till Sunday, so I'm leaving the second I get off work!


Zac
I do this for fun...